Travel

Pushed to the limit on the last day of swim trek

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img_1566The last day is always sad. We’re all getting to know each other. It doesn’t matter that this was a slightly shorter trek or that we knew most of the swimmers before.

We hopped in the water and off we went. After a few days swimming you know who you swim best with. Someone with a similar pace. My wing man is Olivier. He’s from Paris.

My wing woman in Galapagos was lovely Betty from the USA and in Montenegro it was fun Sophie from England, now living Tarifa in Spain  I’ve loved swimming with all these great people

Today Steve  decided to stay with us. I like this because he becomes the sighter and I can relax and swim! He guides us in the direction we need to go which is pretty important on the crossings from island to island.

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We started with  one of these crossings. Then  we hit a tough patch of choppy water and a strong current running against us. Ricky gathered us on the boat and moved us onto the end of the island and we started another crossing.

Relaxing on the boat before the final swim.

One of the crossings from island to island. Steve in yellow cap out front.

From here on it was smooth swimming and we stopped every half hour for some food – this really helps with distance swimming.

Finally we finished. 8 km! Yes, me – my personal best distance  oh boy …

Congratulations from Steve. 8km!

We stopped at a lovely bay at the top of Ugljan island and had our last lunch together at Konoba Dali.

It was a pretty restaurant with terrific views and even better food. We had a Peka. This is a traditional dish of the island . Some had meat and the other octopus.

The 🐙 had just been caught that morning , boiled, tenderised and then cooked in a clay pot over hot coals. It was the most wonderfully tender octopus I have ever had.

 

They served it with potatoes and zucchini and lashings of olive oil.

Fantastic with a local wine – Rose.

It will be sad to leave our friends at swim trek. It was all made possible by Chris Masek, our friend from our first trek in Sardinia in 2013 when I could only swim about 1 km. He also organised the big swims Steve got to do. One the crossing from Corsica to Sardinia and the other from Spain to Morocco.

Chris, sadly didn’t get here at all for the trek. Business interfered at the last moment and he couldn’t get away.

In the evening we had the end of swim trek dinner. Photo opportunities of new friends.

Guide Neil, myself, Yves- former guide now friend, Steve and Ricky our guide here and from Greece 2 years ago.

Ricky, Dan Garr from LA, Neil, myself and swim buddy Olivier, and Dan’s two sons Luke and Max and wife Isabelle

Julien with the ‘jeans style’ swim togs given by Steve. Quite a novelty.

Clowning around with Yves. Neil sitting.

As usual , Awards were given. I got mine for being a ‘record breaker!’ Setting new distances each day.

It was a great few days of swimming. Usually swim treks are 5-6 days of swimming but this one was longer distances over 4 days. Exhausting!

Tomorrow we move on to Zagreb.

We take a ferry at 9.15 back to Zadar then a comfortable bus to Zagreb.

 

 

 

Day 3 Swim Trek 

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Once again breakfast with the  boys and we were off and away.


Today Dan our American friend, inventor , funny man , foodie and all round good guy brought his wife Izzey and two sons Max and Luke along on the boat. They aren’t really swimmers but were prepared to give it a go. So off we went for a crossing and a lovely swim along some more beautiful coastline.

It’s a magic day – but before we go we get the vasoline treatment!

The beautiful waters of Croatia.

The two boys did a bit of the swims and then jumped back on while Izzey  became the photographer for the day.

Lunch by Ricky & Neil

Perfect summer bar

Informal waterpolo. Training the stars of the future.

We had another great lunch provided by our guides Ricky and Neil. They provided a variety of salads and assorted fruits. Very spoiled.

The last swim today was along the coast ending in a little bay with a great bar along the waters edge overlooking a waterpolo area netted off for the local kids to practice their skills.

No wonder Croatia do well at waterpolo. The kids playing informally were very skilled and fun to watch.

We made our way back to the boat to return to the hotel to do a quick change before we headed our for dinner at Konoba Roko for dinner.

Day 2 Swim trek

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Once swim trek starts there isn’t much more to report than what goes on during the trip day.

It’s all about the trip to the boat, the journey to the start of the day’s swim. The examining of the map, the applying of the vasoline to stop chaffing (believe me you don’t want chaffing from all this salty water! It’s very painful)


Then it’s off and away.

Our group is small but we’re getting along just fine. Four French men and Dann our American, Yves our ex guide and friend, and Steve and I. Lucky me , only girl.


Today we motored down the back of the island we are on and moored in a little bay which sparkled in the morning light. The water is the  most exquisite blue.

We set off to cross the channel. It can be busy so we had to stay together.

It was 3.5 km across and fortunately the conditions were perfect. We had a few little stops – for boats or water and then at the end a snack of banana. Then we swam around a little island entered the channel and swam along the coast for another km or so. We took a break in a little bay with a village along the shoreline. People must wonder about us as we swim up past their boats or into the village where they have umbrellas scattered along the shoreline.


We pushed on and finally finished after 6.4 km. All in one swim which for me is the longest distance I’ve done in one swim.

We were given our swim trek t-shirt. And everyone sat around chatting about the swims and the shirts!

This afternoon we may swim on to make it 8 km.



At the end of a great day the guides Neil and Ricky sit with all the gear in the back of our van! The ever smiling guides.

Farewell Slovenia. Hello Croatia. 

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We had a wonderful last night in Bled. After the storm we made it to the little church island. It was quiet and beautiful. The church of the Assumption is mostly white with a restrained interior and a bell you are invited to ring and make a wish. I had wondered about the number of bells I’d been hearing!

Inside of the bell tower. Wonderful wooden staircase.

Had a great last dinner at  villa on the edge of Bled town. Phillip the waiter was very helpful and friendly which was in contrast to the trip advisor comments on the restaurant.

As we walked back along the lake we decided we’d had the perfect amount of time in Bled. For all it’s beauty unless you want to hang out at the lake swimming or do bush walking then two days is probably enough. We were ready for Croatia.

So bright and early we made our way to the little bus station. Thank goodness Villa Pavlovski was only a 3 min walk!

We got the bus back to Ljubljana and changed to one for Croatia. It was to take 5 hrs all up. The scenery was good and we knew we’d arrived in Croatia because things were not quite as green and there were rocky outcrops everywhere. Very rugged landscape here. Which contrasts amazingly well with the Blue of the sea.

Just north of Zadar. Contrasting rugged landscape and the sea.

We arrived in Zadar at 1.30 ready for lunch with Tracey a friend from Melbourne. We met last year in Montenegro and it turns out she’d just finished two treks. First in Sardinia then in Croatia. She is great fun and has made great progress with her swimming. She went in a fun swim today in Zadar with 4 of the swim trek guides – 5 km -and won her age group and “First Australian over the line”! She’s amazing.

By 4.30 we were riding the ferry to Ugljan and the township of Preko. We were met by one if the hotel staff and whisked along to a modern looking complex of little 2 bedroom apartments. The hotel overlooks the very pretty, very busy  bay. Only problem- none of the apartments have a view of the sea. The good thing is we are away from the party night noise.


Preko is a summer holiday haven. All around Ugljan there are bays and beaches and we’ll be swimming them with guides Ricky and Neil.

Land of summer fun. Preko Bay.

We had a swim and the water is gorgeous. And salty! After  fresh water Lake Bled it was a bit much for the eyes with no goggles.

Then I walked and people watched. Summer anywhere brings the crowds. The families, friends, dog lovers, eaters, teenagers in packs. All getting along. Playing and splashing (not much swimming!) and eating gelato. All shapes and sizes with almost all the women in two pieces. Including me! And I didn’t feel anyone even noticed me. In Australia I definitely wouldn’t wear one, but here, why not! If I’d had my bright training swimmers from Funkita on they may have noticed me.

Restaurants and boats. Just the right mix.

There is a walkway that follows the waterline along – in and around the beaches and bays. You get to a section where there are restaurants lined up together. Not with the cream umbrellas of Ljubljana but with either smart furniture or plastic. Doesn’t make much difference.

We returned for a walk heading for dinner around 9pm and there were still groups splashing and playing. The children seem so carefree. The moon was coming out and the colours of the sky so soft and beautiful.


I know we’ll have a good week here. We’re looking forward to our friends arriving tomorrow.

This  trek will take us to the quiet isolated parts of this island and to explore other islands in this area. Lucky us.

Summer around Lake Bled

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If you want to beat the crowds you have to get up early! Hence the saying … ‘The early bird catches the worm’

We got going and walked up the steep hill as well as  the 300 steps to reach the castle. I think we were almost first there . The climb really tested the knees!

The last little bit of uphill. All worth it.

The view back over the lake was beautiful.


We met a nice Israeli man who asked me to take his photo. Well at least 30 photos in various locations around the castle made me want to hide! Or charge a fee. Especially after the prayer position in the Chapel.

The castle is very small by the standard of other castles in Europe and was extensively damaged in two earthquakes back in the 1600’s and 1700’s. It’s been rebuilt with new uses in mind and is therefore very pretty for a castle. There are also workshops set up in some of the rooms, a blacksmith, and we met the loveliest young printer. I must say the men here are very handsome.

Lovely young printer in the print shop. Born and bred in Bled.

After coffee we left the castle and made our way back down the very steep hill to join the walkway around the lake. It’s a 5 km walk and we didn’t hurry. This left time to observe the lake from all angles, observe our fellow travellers, see the activities people get up to, have a swim and of course a gelato.

A novel way of keep cans cool. The little waterfall just keeps flowing over the cans which turns the bucket they are sitting in.

There were a number of interesting sculptures.

I particularly liked this sculpture of a rower. Rowing is huge over here. The world championships are coming up soon.

There were a number of people fishing. Mind you we didn’t see anything being caught. Their gear was all very coordinated and we wondered if they had hired it?


We reached a little beach. Lots of families were paddling and swimming so we moved around the corner and set up our things for a swim. Steve headed off and I sat for awhile before hitting the beautiful water and swimming out to the island. It was about 1 km and was just lovely. I joined a group of teenagers. A swim camp I think but after a bit they pulled away from me! I wonder why?

Just past our swim spot I noticed all these little fish enjoying their swim

When we’d finished we were enjoying the sun and the quiet when along came the local scout group. There must have been 60 little kids around 6-10 years old who carried rolled up mats, little scarves around their necks and bags stuffed with swimming gear. They wasted no time in discarding clothes and putting on their swimmers. All very relaxed.

They hit the shallows and no body seemed to be overly concerned that most didn’t seem able to swim. They stayed with in their depth and splashed around and most didn’t even put their head under.


We continued our walk and saw lots of little groups splashing around when they could get into the lake safely.

Of course I spotted a wedding.

Quite the meringue style dress but she looked lovely. Note the hydrangeas. They are everywhere around the lake.

A few more views of the castle and the church – which we visited earlier today.


We finished and enjoyed a beer and salad before heading back to our apartment. Then it clouded over, the wind blew, the thunder came, and we’ve just had a beauty of a storm. When it blows over we’ll head out for the boat ride to the church on the island.


This little bird joined us on the deck for lunch!

Oh What a Wonderful World 

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Today travelled out of beautiful little Ljubljana through lush countryside and arrived in Paradise.

I’d heard good things about Lake Bled but it is just so beautiful I’m short of words to describe it! and the weather is glorious.

We got off the bus after a 50 min easy coach ride and walked around the corner and down a little hill to the most beautiful view of the lake. And there was our accommodation. Close to the bus, opposite a park falling down a gentle slope to the lake.


The only downside is we don’t have a view of the lake from our apartment. But who wants to be in the apartment – as lovely as it is? We arrived too early to enter the apartment so left our bags and took ourselves off for a walk.

Lake Bled is a lake in the Julien Alps in the NW of Slovenia. It is 2.1km long and 1.4km at it widest. It has a small island, and on the island is a beautiful church dedicated to the Assumption of Mary. The church has a tower which stands tall across the lake.

Steve swimming with the beautiful church behind him

Bled also has a castle perched atop a steep cliff about 100 m above the lake. Talk about dramatic.

We will visit the castle tomorrow.

We stopped lake side for a salad and healthy juice as we  planned an afternoon swim. We did share one the famous Lake Bled Crema pastries – like a vanilla slice.

Note the 2 spoons. We shared.

After checking in to our very cute clean apartment we headed off in swimmers to the beach and boatshed. Lifesaver Steve decided we should row across the lake to the island and have a swim. There is a lido where for 6 euro you can get access to a large roped off area of the lake with inflatable things, a slide, some pontoons and lots of lawn to stretch our on.


We hired a boat. And off we – well Steve – rowed. I gave navigational directions!


We got to the little island in good time and tied up in one of the parking spots and joined some of the swimmers jumping off the dock. Unlike the jumpers who just jumped then climbed back we head off for a swim around the island. It was , according to Steve’s fancy swimmers watch, 750 m and we did it in 15 mins. So not too far! And it was delightful. Water temp was good and it was so clean and clear.

I had a little row coming back so Steve could take another short swim with the church behind him.


After our swim and returning the boat we lazed on the grass beside the lake and read and people watched. There are lots of people around but it doesn’t feel crowded. Some nice family groups with small children. We watched the little boats coming and going from the church island. It’s actually a little reminiscent of last year’s stay in Perast Montenegro where there was a similar church island in the bay.

Cute boats transport people. Rather plain hotel in the back ground.

We were having a little lie down and a nap when we heard snorting! Eyes opened to see a little horse grazing nearby. A man had  horse on a lead and was letting him graze –  then every now and then a small child would wander up and he’d offer a ride.


So now it’s time to shower and change for dinner. We haven’t quite decided where to go tonight. Probably somewhere with a view on the menu!

Under the green and in the caves of Slovenia.

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Lovely and cool this morning as we walked to the train station on our way to the Skocjan Caves about an hour south west of Ljubljana. We’d heard these Caves were worth visiting so planned a day through the countryside to get to them.

What we didn’t plan was the train being changed to a bus. Not sure why. You don’t get too many explanations on matters of transport!

The bus proved to be considerably slower as we wound through the lush countryside. They don’t know the meaning of drought here in Slovenia. It’s green and well forested.

Outside the cave it was green and bright

The surrounding countryside

Steve outside the cave

 

The villages are reminiscent of German, Swiss or Austrian villages. They are neat and tidy with flowering window boxes on all the houses. They have well stacked woodpiles near each house – an early preparation for winter, well tended veggie patches and lots play equipment for the children.

I love Italy but must say the Slovenians are much neater. No rubbish by the roads. Just beautiful.

We arrived at the train station – in the bus – and had missed the shuttle to the caves.  A very kind young man named Bognor who was having a coffee in the station cafe insisted on driving us the 2 km to the caves. He also took along two young German girls who we had befriended from the bus. Such a kind young man.

Laura and Francie stayed with us throughout the tour and we had a great time

So by 1 pm we were ready for the walk through the caves. I was completely unprepared for the spectacle we were to see. It was magnificent, amazing  and not to be missed. These caves are Unesco listed and are grand and spectacular.

We were underground for about 2 hours walking through the various chambers and were completely knocked out by what we saw. Photos are prohibited and they wouldn’t do it justice anyway. We walked along the man-made concrete paths looking at the stalactites and stalagmites in the largest underground canyon in the world. Up and down we climbed. 500 steps as well as the long walkways winding up and around the chambers. We walked across a bridge about 100 metres underground and 100 metres above the river flowing through the cave.

Daylight after 2 hours underground. Spectacular

Please look up these caves and see some photos. I don’t have any to share.

 

After we arrived back in Ljubljana we celebrated our great day with  – you guessed -Aperol and a beer, then had a great dinner at Valvasor restaurant. Such beautiful food. Tempura asparagus followed by grilled tuna on a bed of vegetables and a delicious white wine Malvazija. Such a great day

 

 

Getting to know a new city

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I find the best way to get to know a new place quickly is to do a walking tour.

A map of Ljubljana. Note the old town and the castle above it.

Generally you get a really informed local who likes to meet people. Why else would you do this job? In the last few places we have visited we used Tours for Tips – a company with tours operating all over the world. Here Steve booked one in the local travel centre.

We slept well and headed out for a walk and coffee before meeting at 10am at the City Hall. Our guide – I think her name was Carmen – was a woman in her forties with a charming direct personality, who grew up here in Ljubljana. She knew a lot about the workings of the city and is an interested foodie and gave us lots of hints on the local food.

Entrance to the restaurant with local products


In fact, after orientation to get ourself into the cities history – we entered the city hall building to do this – we headed to a typical restaurant to taste the local sausage- a Kransky style pork sausage served with horseradish cream. This was followed by a small taste of their walnut pastry called potica. Like many of these European cities,  cakes and pastries are consumed as a national pastime. No-one worries about eating too much. I’m also very keen to try their vanilla slice.

History is reflected in the food. Austria has been very obvious in the history here and you see it as you notice the cakes and pastries in the windows of the shops.


We walked along cobbled streets, past the Cathedral and it’s magnificent doors, and caught the funicular up to the castle. There has been a very clever restoration of the castle. The new blends in with the old so well. The rooms are now used as a museum, restaurant, the civic centre for weddings, and a beautiful chapel where you can sit in the quiet and take in the art and frescoes covering the ceiling and walls. A tall, rather handsome gentleman was sitting demonstrating his calligraphy art, making name plates for the visitors. I stood watching his accuracy, speed and beautiful work when he handed me a card with the words Amore vincit omnia which means ‘Loves conquers all’. So sweet of him. 


We walked down one of the many paths from the castle,  back towards the red roofs of the old town.   Carmen told us many more little stories about this lovely city as we steadily walked down the steep cobbled streets. For a while we shaded beaneath the chestnut trees that surround the castle and as we got lower we walked in the shadows of the stone buildings.


The tour ended outside the City Hall and we bid Carmen and our fellow travellers farewell as we headed towards a restaurant I’d noticed on our walk. Julija is a well presented restaurant serving a modern menu including some of the local dishes. Steve had some veal with porcini and I had duck leg with polenta and sour cherries. Sounds Italian but was Slovenian (without the sausage!)

No dessert cake for us – we were saving ourselves for gelato. Now that is Italian, but is just as popular here. The streets after lunch are awash with the drips of gelato as people wander along licking their unusual flavours. Mine – pink grapefruit with basil – was a first and so refreshing.

We walked off lunch then headed for our apartment which is above a few cafe bars – so the afternoon was spent watching a little of the Tour d France and listening to the cafe music.

Late afternoon we headed off for our passagiata along the river before stopping for an Aperol Spritz and a beer. It is quite the aperitif hour and the cream umbrella cafes (the city declared all cafes were to have large cream umbrellas only) were crowded with a variety of people – mostly young, some families, some Asian tourists and a few oldies like us! It seems to be a toss up at this time of the evening. An alcoholic drink or a gelato?


After my usual evening observations we walked to the concert hall for a performance by the St Petersburg Symphony with a pianist soloist who appeared to be about 16. He was probably 20!  Such talent.


I got to take in the concert crowd as well as enjoy the music. We walked home window shopping. There are some great shops here and the sales are on. Pity I don’t need a thing!

The dragon is the symbol of the city. It’s everywhere including on their flag


Ljubiana is proving to be a great holiday destination.

Take off tomorrow! 

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The night before take off is always busy.

The clothes are out on the spare bed. The essentials are checked and double checked.

I try and stick to my rule for packing.

Pack things in lots of 3.

I have 3 bottoms ( 1 pants, 2 shorts, ) 3 dresses ( oops… I have 4!) 3 shoes, 3 tops and swimmers, goggles and all the other “stuff” for swimming.

We are flying with China Southern air. This will be a new experience. Let’s hope it’s a good one. Quite a wait in Guangzhou before heading to Paris then onto Ljubljana. A long way. So luckily we are being picked up at the airport. A prebooked GoOpti car service.

Then a nice little apartment in Ljubljana, a city we are keen to explore.

So enjoy my stories and pass this along to other friends. The more readers the better.

Mamma Mia. Last day in Trani

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We survived party night inTrani!  Almost as good a party as in Tarifa last year. The crowds below our apartment kept the chatting up until at least 3am. Not loud screams or obscenities or ever drunkenness. Just lots of talking and laughing.

We woke to golden sunlight, looking out across the port providing the best wake-me-up there is.


A fairly leisurely start with coffee in a nearby cafe before heading off to find Santa Maria di Siponto.

On our way to the car I did my good deed of the day. We were crossing a small street and a little old lady called to me. I went over to her and she asked me to help her across the road. I gave her my arm and we walked along chatting. I had to bend over to hear her she was so little.


She told me she was 92! Her daughter lived in Milan and she had lived in Trani for 30 years. She talked on and on in Italian and I was tested!  We walked another block together before we thanked me and turned into her apartment. She’d been out shopping – in the heat. What a sweetie.

So we arrived ( finally – as we got  a little lost). Signs here are almost non existent except for signs to the beach or Lido or the buffo mozzarella factory!  This Basilica, Santa Maria, was built in 1117 and had many changes  in fortune over the years. It had been abandoned for many years. Until ……

Recently,  Edoardo Tresoldi created a wire mesh impression of the church  – an artistic interpretation of the Basilica, which was abandoned following a 13th-century earthquake and currently sits on what has become the Archaeological Park of Siponto.

It’s an amazing sight.



He has even created some mesh people,who of course we befriended.



We drove back along the coast and explored the seaside villages and enjoyed the names of the ‘Lido’ (“Lidi?”) scattered along the coast. Everything from Bikini Lido to Ipanema, Fanta, Torre, African. Variety is the key! And the deck chairs and umbrellas, as far as the eye can see.

We arrived back at siesta time and decided to pack! Yes, sadly we go tomorrow. To Bari, then by train to Rome. We have a night there and then poor Steve flies home. Board meetings in Melbourne on Tuesday. I’m going off to Cotignac to visit our friends the Brannocks. Lucky me!

So the travel tales continue.

So this afternoon, after a little shopping, we had our last Trani, Aperol Spritz for me and beer for the boy.


We observed the locals. I feel we are getting to know them! We went to the same bar and saw the same people walking. The Nonno with his grandson. The fisher monger who today was able to get his cart through the little lane. The man with the turned up collar being driven to his restaurant on a Vespa by one of his waiters. The handsome man on a pink bike who stops at the corner to observe and make a call (who to I wonder?). The mamma in the cute Smart Car who drops her daughter to work in the cafe. The teenager who rides the littlest, noisiest bike imaginable. And doesn’t he love the attention! The mother and daughter jogging together. All the nonno and nanna’s walking and sitting along the promenade.

I feel we know them already.

We had our passeggiata and talked about the things we would like to bring home.
I’d love the long paved promenade with all its wooden benches at our beach. Also the stepped stone fence available for people to sit on and watch the world go by.

I’d love for people to turn off the TV and go out walking after dinner. But I wonder where we would walk? To the beach?  But there aren’t many places to sit and see and be seen. We need to embrace the sociable side like the Italians do.

As you can hear in my voice, I love the Italians. Yes,  they can be thoughtless – they throw rubbish out their car window! They push in, in traffic! But they love children. They love eating and they love a chat.

After dinner we strolled and I felt like a piccolo gelato. So we stopped in and I ordered mine. Panecotta. Steve thought he’d have the Cafe Speciale. It was advertised on the board outside. So in his best Italian lubicated with wine and after dinner limoncello he ordered ‘Cafe Speciale’. And got a coffee.

So as I’m writing this I’m listening to the church bells and watching the crowds gather for another night that isn’t a party night. It’s just the usual – people sharing a common space.

IMG_2361.jpgOur apartment on the corner – top floor with a balcony over both streets!

So for now – arrivederci!