The New Year is here and we are planning our next adventures.

I look back at our  holidays last year. The trip to France and Spain in August was wonderful. Check the stories out in earlier posts. Then our recent trip to Cambodia to see Pete and Elena and celebrate their engagement was amazing.

As I sit on the beach chatting to friends we share stories of last years travel and what’s on our bucket list for this year.

Lea fancies Norway and Russia and as does Jill. Two friends both leaning towards the same places!  Susie is looking at India and maybe a wedding. Carmel will be going back to Sri Lanka and India for work. And the Maitlands have a few little holidays and surprise surprise another swim trek. This time to Montenegro. We’ll follow up with a week or two in my favourite country – Italy. This time in the heel of the country – arriving in Bari and heading south to Otranto and holidaying the way Italians do.

Other little holidays or ‘getaways’ this year include. Melbourne for Australia Day and perhaps a night at the tennis. Another visit in February to Melbourne with friends for the Edinburgh  Tattoo. Yes it’s coming to Melbourne!

Then in April,  New Zealand with Chris and Jill Wilson to visit friends from our Greece swim trek. Steve is braving the cool waters of Auckland and doing a swim with Kim and David. We’ll also visit the area called the Coramandel.

We head to Sydney for niece Pips wedding to Hugh in April and then nephew Patrick’s wedding to Lauren in Port Macquarie in May. Hopefully we’ll be able to call into Crescent Head to visit the McGregors.

By June we’ll be preparing for our holiday swimming in Montenegro and touring Puglia.

Maybe the USA in October to visit our swim trekking friends and sample the wines near Lodi where Jordan’s parents live.

Then in December it’s back to beautiful Cambodia for Peter and Elena’s wedding. It’s on Dec 20. The date they met and the date two years later they got engaged.  We can’t wait.

So that’s it’s for holidays at the moment. Lots to look forward to.

I love the roads here. Yes they are dusty and very busy. But they are endlessly entertaining. 

These are some of the things we saw; 

   
   Three on a bike is common! 

  Carrying shopping or half your house in a tuk tuk!

  When the traffic slows just ride on the footpath! And no one worries!

  Blow up toys on the footpath and 

  On a bike

  Fruit sellers

  Nurseries
  Chairs
  More deliveries on the footpath. 

  Family and friends together. 

  Pigs

  
We saw fire engines. Then we saw the fire!

  
Then the ambulance
Phnom Penh. Crazy but gets under your skin. 

Unfortunately El has to work today so we are sight-seeing with Pete. We started with a quick swim and wandered down to Che Culo , Nick’s bar where El is manager. 

It’s an easy stroll down the narrow street, lined with tuk tuk drivers lounging inside their tuks calling lazily ‘A ride for you today?’ We also pass several spas ( everyone here must have ripped muscles and smooth skin judging by the number of spas), a nice looking backpackers placed called The Monkey bar , an English school called Harrods, a coffee shop, a child care centre, a French man selling beautiful pate, sausages and other lovely meats, a few apartment blocks and a restaurant called il Forno: the manager Antonio has become a ‘friend’ as we met him through El in Siem Reap. 

Most the streets around here are like this one. Not too busy, mixture of little shops, bars, restaurants, coffee shops etc.  

  I enjoyed my first coffee in 2 weeks! A piccolo. 

Then it was in a tuk and away to the National Museum – a rather lovely building with an interesting collection of statues mostly of Buddha and Vishna. Having been to Siem Reap helped with already having some knowledge of Buddhism and the Cambodian empire as it was. 

It was back out to the museum of the local street a fascinating landscape of people, transport and interesting businesses. We were on ‘Art St’ and walked in and out of the many little galleries fitted along the street. Most had fairly garish large paintings but some were just lovely. I liked one little square canvas of a temple black and white with just two monks in colour. Next thing old romantic Pete was asking the price on a similar one of Ankor Wat because it showed the spot where he had proposed to El. He bought it as a surprise for her. 

Down the tree lined street we walked towards the river and went up to the balcony of the FCC club for a beer and lovely views of the river – not to mention the welcome breeze. Although it’s warm here it’s no worse than Brisbane on  a hot summers day. Pete tells me it’s still winter and we have been enjoying the best weather for months. Lucky us! Wouldn’t want to be here in May June – apparently the hottest time. 

After our break we walked down the river to the Palace and its many outstanding buildings a collection of ornate temples, stupas, reception rooms and other decorated pagoda style buildings. We toured around taking shoes on and off as we entered the temples. You need easy to remove shoes here as you are  on and off with them everywhere. El was wearing things that were too small for her because when she returned someone had taken hers! We like to think it was a mistake! But who knows. 

By now the sun was very warm so we walked awhile observing the locals and made our way back to Che Culo then a swim before heading to Pete and El’s for a balcony dinner. 

They went to so much trouble to make a lovely dinner for us. and was relaxed and delicious. Music, candles entree, salad slow cooked pork.  All delicious. They even. Bought ice cream and chocolate for Steve as they know he loves it. Thank you El and Pete.   

 

Our little breakfast routine is established but today we slept in and missed the 10 am cut off. Must be relaxed! 

Went for coffee to Che Culo and met up with the kids and set off to Pete’s school. It’s about 20 mins from his place and in a quiet street – relatively speaking! It’s a primary class campus with the infants school a block away. There is a security guard at the entrance who greeted Peter like a long lost friend and then various grounds people all giving friendly greetings. We walked up to the top of the building – 4 flights  – where both year 4s share a landing. Pete’s room is basic but set up well( teacher in me speaking!). Mind you he has a full time Teacher Assistant!  

         
  
The other Yr 4 is teacher Gary from England , a nice guy we met in Kampot a few days ago along with Principal Justin from NSW. 

Then off to the Central Market. Housed in a large domed building radiating out from the dome they are clean and very organised by Asian standards.   Did a bit of shopping and marvelled at the jewellery counter. Lots of bling. Much easier to negotiate than the Russian markets where you need to leave a crumb trail to find your way out. 

  Lunch is always a feature of our day and today didn’t disappoint. Off to a yum char feed. Pete has all the food types covered and knows where to get the best of everything. (Usually the cheapest as well)  

 We prepared for the last night and took a wonderful sunset cruise only $5 head and practically had a whole boat to ourselves. We took along our own wine as a sundowner and settled in for the hour long cruise along the river. Again spectacular.  

   

     
 Back to The Chinese House for a drink  where the Sth African owner made a fuss of El and finally to Romdeng. It’s s classic Camboduan sophisticated restaurant used as a training place for hospitality workers. It’s was perfect. Food wonderful. Even tried the crispy tarantulas! Brava!  

   

  

Phnom Penh is a mixing pot of people – many who seem to be hiding from something, running away, looking for adventure, wanting to help or even exploit people , start a business or to simply enjoy life in an Asian country. 

Talking about this with Pete and his friend Nick,  they said they’d come up a pecking order.  

It goes like this: ( and the glossary is at the end)

• The corporate expats look down on teachers,
• Teachers look down on NGOs,
• NGOs down on backpackers, 
• Backpackers look down on sexpats,
• Sexpats look down on deathpats,
• And everyone looks down on the French. (Remember this is me quoting )

GLOSSARY:

Corporates: those who work with professional businesses including bankers, qualified teachers etc

Teachers: those who come over to teach English with few qualifications. 

NGOs : those who come to volunteer for organisations who help the locals. Mostly do it to help but others to feel good themselves and then  complain about conditions. 

Backpackers: those here to travel on the cheap and see the country but spend most of the time drunk. 

Sexpats: those who come for lots sex on holidays. Hopefully not with underage children. 

Deathpats: those older people who come to die on the cheap. Either drink or drug themselves to death. 

French: those French people who think and act like they still own the country. 

Back from the cooking class and an hour to change. Tuk tuk waiting at the front of the guest house. 

No time to lose. Sunsets don’t wait. Neither do the boats! 

We made it and they have beer on board which makes Steve and Pete quite happy. 

 

  
 
We got on the boat at Riverside with 2 minutes to spare with Peter the South African from our guest house. My goodness he asked a lot of questions. Best not say too much about him! 

The cruise got underway and it was great to see the river from a boat. To cruise past some of the places built along the banks including the spa we went to the other day and Greenhouse where we spent many hours on Christmas Day ( and just might be the venue of  Pete and El’s Cambodian wedding next December) It was lovely.  

     
Then the sun in all its glorious colours began to set. Stunning. I know I said it last night but it’s done it again! It’s gorgeous!  

Again. 

   
   
After the cruise we tuk tukked to Samon villa on the river to meet up with friends of Pete ‘s from PP. in fact his Principal and his yr 4 teaching partner Gary from the UK. 

  A lovely last night

Today I was being thoroughly spoilt. My Christmas present from El was a 4 hour pamper package at a women’s only spa  just out of town on the river. Peter gave El the same thing! So we headed off together around 10.30.  

 What a great experience. We arrived and off with our shoes Cambodian style and down to the covered deck on the edge of the river. El had a quick dip and Tea was served from gently smiling young Cambodian women. 

 
 When it was time to start we headed up the stairs into the loft area which had billowing white curtains and fans whirring quietly. Down onto the plain bed for the first treatment : a papaya and honey scrub. I’d never had a scrub before and boy did I like it. My girl had strong and careful hands and for an hour scrubbed every bit of my dry skin. Then a wipe down,  a shower,  some more green tea before upstairs again wrapped in a pretty sarong. Then came the aromatherapy massage. Blissful I must say. By now we were both so relaxed. But there was more. We had a healthy fresh juice and then it was the facial. Gorgeous. 

It all ended with another shower and then into the tuk tuk and off to Kep with the boys. I think some of the good of the massage and facial was undone after the rattling journey along the coast to Kep. 

Kep is a seaside town best known for it pepper crab. We stopped at one of the many restaurants along the waterfront and got stuck into two pepper crabs  between us. Yum. They are becoming very famous and people travel down from PP for the day to eat them. 

  
We washed up at the two sinks convienently  placed in the middle of the restaurant so you can duck over at any time and wash your hands. So practical! We finished and walked along the beach front and looked at the markets. Same but different to markets the world over. 

  
  
The ladies in the markets are a pleasure to watch. All friendly and going about their business with calm and contentment. 

  
Simple lives. Simple pleasures. 

  
It would be good if we all seemed to enjoy our work. 

Then a walk along the coast and around the corner to a beach Pete had never been to. It was a pretty horse shoe shaped bay with people splashing around and could have been in any number of countries. The sand was white, the children playing soccer, the parents in groups chatting. People setting up their own comfy chairs along the promenade. We stopped for a drink at the Beach House hotel and watched the spectacular sunset. Ah! So beautiful. I’m entranced by sunsets and having seen a few good ones this one was right up with them. 

  
   
 
And so back to Kampot for a quick drink and dinner before heading back to our guest house. 

Did I mention that for the first time in a long while I got the accomodation WRONG. Yes , me who checks everything. I didn’t follow my gut this time. As it had  glowing reviews and seemingly good facilities. I went for comfort over position. And as a consequence we have to get a tuk tuk every time we go to the little town centre. I kind of sensed it would be wrong but didn’t change and of course now I’m sorry! 

Next time I’ll follow my instincts! 

Steve and I  woke to the sounds of chickens and roosters and what sounded like a call to prayer but could have been just karaoke. 

We had a tasty breakfast cooked by David the Australian owner a laid back almost hippy style guy who can actually cook very well. Steve loves his French toast for breakfast and the little omelet I have is delicious. 

  Off we went on our bicycles trying to ride like locals and not worry about anything hitting us! It’s not very busy here so it wasn’t too bad. Down the lane way near our place across the bridge and into the little town of Kampot. First thing we see is a crowd of motorbikes and cycles converging on the school. Not celebrating Christmas means schools and everything else is open. We cycled gently along Riverside Dr and took in the sights. The old bridge now blocked off, locals under palm trees catching the breezes off the river, men playing cards, old boats lined up with signs displaying sunsets cruises, offical looking buildings and the one we like best. The Cambodian Olympic Aquatic centre funded in 2008 by the Cambodian Olympic Committee, the International Olympic Committee and by Daimler Chrylser. Such sponsorship! It consisted of a unfinished building and big fence and two canoes. Not sure if the river itself is used for swimming!  

 We gently cycled around the town getting the idea of merging at intersections but never really stopping. To stop means no one will ever let you in and you’d sit there all day! So we became quite good. Steve bought a t shirt with elephants on it and we enjoyed our daily fruit shake. Yum. 

  Back to the guest house and met up with Pete and El exchanging one present before heading out to Green House. Down country lanes following the river a right turn took us closer to the river and anticipation grew. It was so bumpy. So dusty. Then round the corner and  into a little oasis. Very laid back timber style house overlooking the river and mountains and instantly we started to relax. 

 
    

 Out with the Santa hats. A few photos a few bottles of lovely French Rose. Great food several dishes using the local pepper in various colours and even the delicious local honey. More presents. I received a little necklace from Pete with my name written on it  made by a friend. El gave me a 4 hour pamper at the local women’s only spa. So tomorrow we go together as Peter gave her one as well. Pampering on the banks of the river in timber huts. Sounds delightful. Not sure about the naked swim at the end as it could be too much for my future daughter in law. But she is reassuringly encouraging telling me I look very good ( but I know next to her I would look a fright) oh well I’ll just relax and enjoy.  

 
  
  
Lunch turned into a long affair punctuated with a swim in the river, another glass and lots of chat about the wedding. Better to get it planned whilst we are here so we know what to expect. We all agreed that they being a fairly low key couple where we were sitting would be an ideal place to have the wedding. The back drop against the forested mountains is gorgeous. We discussed logistics and even talked to Sabine the French owner of Greenhouse. So we think we have a plan. 

  Sitting under the trees in the balmy night air was a lovely way to spend Christmas. Hopefully some will be able to travel to this poor country and enjoy the simple charms it offers. 

Kampot is very well known for its delicious pepper and we set off today talking about the dishes we wanted to try with pepper in it.

Our driver picked us up at 11 and off we went to Kampot about 2 and a half hours away.

Driving through the outskirts of PP and into the countryside of Cambodia reminded me of the drive from Hanoi to Halong Bay.

Crumbling buildings, piles of rubble, plastic bags , dogs, scooters, bikes often with whole families on board ( some of the little ones asleep ) trucks, little wooden spirit houses, feather dusters, school children always dressed neatly in blue skirts or long pants and white shirts but not always wearing shoes , women walking in their pyjamas suits, lots of little shops. ……. We passed it all.

Finally it became more countryside and more mountains in the distance. Pete and El love Kampot and kept telling us how lovely it was there compared to PP. I’m not convinced we’ll find it equal to our weekend getaway spots!

After a lot of epic driving going round trucks and little school kids on bikes and older kids two and three deep on motor cycles we arrived at Kampot.

First impressions : old, dusty, eclectic, faded. Later after we dropped our bags at our Guest House and headed into the small main area I revised this impression to fading charm, laid back ambiance , original, friendly, slow and waiting to be discovered.

Pete and El have been here a few times and are wanting to get in on the growing appeal for this little place. They , particularly El, want to open a guest house, restaurant bar. Yes after all the teacher training , Pete is considering moving on. He can’t afford to do it too soon so might have to keep living in PP during the week and teach then return to Kampot and help El set up the business they want to run. It’s still a way off because it’s harder than it seems to do. But they are keen and have been gathering ideas. El is smart and has been using her experience at managing Nick’s restaurant to build experience for their own business. Who knows what will happen.

As most of you know I am very particular and quite successful at selecting our holiday accomodation. Well this time I got it wrong. Nice place but wrong location! Too far from the action of Kampot. But Pete has hired a motor bike and Steve and I have the use of push bikes for the 10 min ride across the river into town.

For Christmas Eve dinner we went to Baraca run by friend of the kids. It was tapas night. Great fun. Great food and lovely cocktails. Followed by a walk along the river which twinkled with Christmas lights I could feel the effect this place has on people.