Florence

I’m enjoying Florence so much more than I thought  I would. It’s not quite as crowded as I imagined and it’s so beautiful. We visited the Pitti Palace and were so early we got into the gardens before anyone else. It was glorious. We have walked along the streets in the footsteps of the Medicis .
I just downloaded a book about the Medici family so will be absorbed for a few days.

Sunday night we went over the river to find a restaurant a local lady we met had told us about. We  got to the piccolo piazza and found them setting up for a concert. We got a great table and were given yet another complimentary Prosecco ” gratis della casa” . The restaurant was called quatro leoni and the place was jumping. We sat outside with a view across the piazza and just watched the evening unfold with mostly locals dropping by for a drink or …….

Whilst they waited for the concert to begin. We thought it would start around 8 as the band were on and off the stage tuning, fixing lights, having a ciggi, drinking vino, chatting to locals etc. so we enjoyed our antipasti, our vino della casa, the pollo alla limone, vedura etc.  it was a constant floor show for us.
We saw lovers  kissing, children running, a man making pork rolls ( like a BBQ only better) waiters flying around, people choosing seats for the concert, oldies greeting each other with cascades of kisses, people of all ages licking gelato,  ladies in lovely linen dresses reserving seats for their friends, a lady with her dog taking up a whole seat and no one seeming to mind.

The camera man had the stage and at times the audience projected onto the white wall of the ancient building behind, just above the holy water font on the wall. We waited and waited and 8-8.30 and even 9 came and no concert , just a bit of tuning up by the various members of the band. The drummer was a George Clooney Italian style look a like, ( sigh)  a cute female keyboard player, male sax player in a Hawaii type shirt, a flute player looking like a sixties flower child, a long haired guitarist, and a groovy lead guitar with a little hat on.
Well the concert finally started with a L.  o.  n.  G.  Speech made by a good looking local followed by an even longer one by his off sider.  Finally it started at 9.50 and every one seemed happy  -except by now we were tired. Seats became scarce and someone wanted the dogs seat. So the owner lifted it on toher lap. Every one got up – moved  along and let a little old lady into sit down. They are so kind to their older people .
After several songs of a very Italian nature we decided the show for us was over! We walked back
through the streets still alive with those enjoying the wonderful weather along the river Arno.

What a night. 

Lovely Lucca to Fabulous Florence

After our great day with Sue and P-L in Torre del Lago and Via Reggio we had a final dinner at a courtyard restaurant where we ran into Frances and Jeanie from our Italian school. We returned home and packed and were ready to farewell Lucca by 9 the next morning. We successfully called a taxi to the bus and and hour and ten mins later were in Firenze. Our walk to the hotel was a little longer than planned. Yes we took a wrong turn! But it is a short 5 min walk in a quiet street .  Wouldn’t you know it the San Lorenzo markets are at the end of our street! We  went to lunch at a lovely little trattoria while our room was being cleaned.
The hotel – aptly named City Hotel is really good. Not too expensive , good location and rooms are clean and big enough for two. Breakfast proved to be a winner as well.
After lunch and unpacking we headed out in the heat for the Duomo.
We visited the Bapistry first and then noticed the Duomo was closed . Disappointed we wandered the nearby street until nearly 5 when the advertised Mass was about to start. Remembering  a similar thing in Prague, I suggested to Catherine we approach the guard at the side door and ask to attend the Mass. Sure enough he let us in while the other tourists stood behind the ropes wondering who we were and why we got in! Mass was peaceful and cool and lovely. As it turned out it was the weekly English Mass.
After Mass we had our usual Prosecco and people watching session before going into a nearby little tiny church where we had seen a sign advertising an organ concert. It was wonderful sitting listening to gorgeous music.
We walked home finding a very old little family owned restaurant and had a delicious meal. Ran into Anette Allen’s husband Mark. Small world.

Last days in Lucca

The last few days have been busy and lots of fun. On Thursday after class , I had my hair cut. Under our building I had noticed a hairdressing salon. It looked good – and I was quite amused to hear music coming out of the salon during siesta. Beatles music sung by a man on guitar. “what would you do if I sang out of tune!” well Catherine and I nearly called out ” we’d shut the window! Anyway on my way to class we stopped in and I made an appointment.
So after class I returned and we started.
Lovely Guissepi , told me in Italian that he worked on his own as he loved hairdressing and wasn’t ready to retire. I asked him about the singing and he admitted that he loved the Beatles! He said he was born in 1952 (same as me) and grew  up with their music! I told him I was a big fan as well. So we  chatted in Italian ( and sometimes English when I  forgot a word) . He complimented my hairdresser in Brisbane and said I had a very good stylist! So I’ll have to tell Nea! After finishing the hair we rushed to the wall of the city where we met the other members of our class to get the bus to Villa Mainochi. My teacher Stefano took us and was”tour guide” . He’s very nice but doesn’t know when to stop talking! The “fatorria” was situated about half an hour out of Lucca . It was really beautiful and we toured the vineyard and the gardens. Italian gardens are so different to gardens in England and France. They are for produce more than just to admire! After the tour we went into the cellar and tasted the olives, oil, cheese, meats and of course lots of different wines. What a great  afternoon. All the class became much better friends after this! We had some wonderful Irish dancing by Finnoula and Frances!

The next day after class ( our last day) we again had to rush off as we were being
picked up by Sue ( a friend of Catherine’s from Sydney Italian class) and her Italian partner Pierre Luigi. They took us to Torre del Lago where we had a lovely lunch and then visited Puccini’s house. Sue has written a book on him so has a wealth of knowledge about him. Music was playing as we toured the house and there was a very good collection memorabilia.
After that we went along to ViaReggio – a sprawling beach resort with some wonderful ” Liberty ” style buildings.

 

Sisters in Italy!

Since Catherine arrived I’ve been so busy!
We had a lovely Saturday . Settling in , farewelling Pat and our first lovely dinner . It rained when Catherine arrived and has done so ever since- so very different to last weeks heat.
Sunday morning we took it slowly and went to St Michel church for Mass. There were lots of locals there so it’s always a good experience. Then we did the Sunday  passeggiata A little shopping and a walk along the wall. Sunday night we had a lovely dinner at Cantine Bernadini.

Then Monday our school. I get so nervous! Had our test to determine our level. Well I know Catherine is better than me but I seem to be in the level just one down. My class is made up of  all Europeans who all sound like they know what they are doing because of their accents. I can hardly understand them in English! Their English is not that good! So we have to speak Italian even in the breaks. So tiring for me.
In the class there is: Simone a nice girl from Switzerland : Gerhard an older gentleman from Austria : Signey from Norway ( my age) Silke from Berlin also around my age: Clara from Austria -young and asks lots of questions , which is good: Dee from USA but very quiet: and Hans Peter from Germany. So very mixed. I thought I was the worst but yesterday I realised I was one of the better ones!

After class Monday we returned home for lunch , a siesta and a walk along the wall before another rain storm hit.
We had dinner at Pasquale and arrived early as our evening passegiata was cut short. Well Pasquale was charming and poured us a complimentary Prosecco! Then he was a wonderful help explaining
and advising us. We had the best meal. Delicious . We ended with another complimentary drink . This time limoncino which I decided I need to sip every night as it helps me sleep! Yes, it really does.

Tuesday back to class. Stefano my teacher is quite dashing and can be funny but isnt the best teacher. Barely explains anything then says va bene! And says Si or non? Well the class have begun to answer non, which throws him a bit as he thinks we must be able to ‘get it’.
After class today we met Catherine’s friend Sue( she lives in Pisa with Pierre Luigi) and Sue’s son who is visiting from NZ. We had a nice lunch at a local trattoria and came back to our lovely apartment for cafe e dolci. After they left we had siesta then went back to school for the Volare singing evening. Only problem! Got the time wrong and we missed it. So we walked some of the quiet streets of Lucca before dinner at a lovely place in Piazza San Francesco. Ran into Gerhart from class and then ended up chatting to the English couple at the next table. Mostly because they kept interrupting us! He was a dead ringer for Bill Nighy the actor but was boring really.

Anyway dinner was delicious -stuffed squid and stuffed zucchini flowers with string beans as a side. Really delicious. Sounds like we eat a lot but not really. We don’t eat anything between meals and our serves aren’t big.

It was Rob’s 29th birthday today. Can’t believe my baby is now that old. Peter was 31 two weeks ago. Happy birthday to my two lovely boys.
Homework before bed! 

Cooking up a storm

First of all last night we had the biggest storm and I was awake for ages. It started about 2 and continued for about 3hours A one point it sounded like canons being fired down the streets.
So after a not very good night sleep we headed  off to find a taxi. I was very proud of myself because I managed to ring for a taxi and spoke to the operator in Italian

Pat and I did the most wonderful cooking class. I saw it advertised and sent an email to Paolo Monti and arranged to go today. It was held at an hotel about 20 mins from Lucca . We met chef Paolo and he was a typical Italian -short and charming man. The were 3 others – Pam and Peter from NY and Wendy from England. 

Well we were straight into it. There was a booklet with 3 starters, 3 pasta sauces and 3 main course. We  thought we would just be doing 1 of each but no Chef Paolo had other ideas and we were set to work chopping etc and got the sauces under way . The dolce started and various other tasks. He was so organised with a wicked sense of humour! 
We sat down to start eating around 12.30 and then had a break  to get the next part ready. By 3 we were full – of food , wine and great ideas for cooking. 

Some of the food included a lettuce sauce for prawn and pasta, a cooked tomato sauce to make other things to , a raw tomato sauce with basil on pasta:  porcini mushroom, shrimp and garlic sauce: lemon sauce for pork: , red wine, Marsala balsamic sauce with grapes reduction for beef,: fennel and orange salad topped with shrimp, caper berries:   mussels with vegetable garliccream , wine and Pernod ! Yum! 

I can’t tell you what a wonderful time we had. So much fun, so much cooking, so much food. Needless to say we didn’t eat a thing for the rest of the day. We went for a late passeggiata and around 9.30 had a  lemoncello (and listened to some jazz), purely for medicinal purposes ! It aids digestion. This I know as we went on a little tasting yesterday and limonchino was one we tried ( and bought) . 

Catherine arrives tomorrow and sadly Pat leaves. She has been great company and I’m sorry to say goodbye to her. 


Beautiful Barga

Woke early! Walked to the bus station near one of the ancient gates and bought the tickets ( all in Italian of course, by ourselves)

The bus ride takes  about an hour driving through a valley which changes from light industrial to pretty river, to power station , back to little towns. Then the climb up the hills to Barga. Steep corners and the bus tooting  as it approaches each corner. Quite entertaining.
We arrived at the old town gate and started to walk . Up. It’s a lovely quiet town with winding streets all leading to the Duomo on the very top of the hill. It so beautiful and quiet and much be gorgeous in winter in the snow.

We had coffee on a verandah overlooking   the valley and checked out the numerous roof tops and then the art shops. We wandered through the churches and up and down the streets …. Then had lunch. Yum. Ricotta  spinach pasta.

Got back to Lucca around 4 and strolled home. Now washing and writing and having wine. Tonight another concert. This one across the road at the music academy. We have been listening to the rehearsals  for two days so thought we should go to the live concert!

More later. In case your are missing photos…. Check out Facebook . I am having a vesper spotting competition 

LUCCA is lovely

Monday morning we set off for the  bus station to take the bus to Barga- but took a wrong turn and missed the bus. Not entirely true. We didn’t check the timetable and were aiming for the 10 am bus. But there wasnt  one! So we went toBagni da Lucca instead.
It has a reputation as a spa town set on a river.

The town is in two parts set along a river. We went to the top town first and went into a hotel to get a map. My Italian was good enough to ask the man for a map and get his suggestions for what we should see. He was very willing to chat but his onion breath put us off and we were back on the sunny street before too long. We stopped for coffee and planned our walk. It was a strange little town . Very quiet and you could hardly see the river. The buildings were all along it , so we trudged up and around the river. Very disappointing . We walked through the gardens and then decided to walk down to the lower town. I was all for hitch hiking to save ourselves a 1 k walk in the very hot sun along the narrow road but Pat and common sense prevailed!

We poked around the lower town , had lunch and got the bus back to Lucca. I’m glad we’re not staying there . No decent piazza!

We rested up before our evening glass of prosecco then headed out for a stroll. Or passeggiata. We had dinner at a great little restaurant Pat had been told about. I had breast of quail with vegetables. Delicious.
We decided to try the tiramisu . Nice but too creamy. We’ll have to try again!

TUESDAY:

Today we hired bikes and ride around the wall. It was such a lovely day. Blue sky, cool breeze an lots to look at. Mothers strolling with babies, men of all shapes and sizes jogging, some very attractive young ladies keeping their figures trim, older nonnas strolling and talking, some sitting in the shade reading. All sharing the space together. We finished by riding around the streets – the quieter ones –  sightseeing as we went.
After the post ride coffee I returned to the apartment to shower and visit the language school and Pat went to visit Pfanner Palazzo and for a spot of shopping. The leather shops here are just amazing. Bags of every style in the most gorgeous colours. Orange being my personal favourite. When I was here with Catherine and Margaret about 4 years ago I bought an orange bag for Marg my sister in law. They are still beautiful.
Tonight we had a vino and went to a Puccini concert in a church. A young couple soprano and bass put on a very good  performance. We followed this with lovely food at Gigi.
Tomorrow we are trying Barga again. This time with  a timetable check.

White Night

What a night it was! Thousands of people mostly locals all wandering around the town. Bands playing different styles of music in each piazza. People eating , dancing, kids chasing balloons, shops  selling full on late into the night. . We had dinner in the ancient Anfiteatre with a band belting out old favourites.
Then just on midnight a spectacular light show . A real one -as finally Lucca was going to get some rain. And down it came about 12.30am just as we got home.
It poured for a few hours so I can only imagine  how soaked everyone got.
Took ages to go to sleep listening to the rain , the people and the sirens.
Our apartment here is in an ancient building on the 3 rd floor opposite the Guigni tower. It’s 2 bedroom, spotless, views over the roof tops and free wifi!

We are also opposite an old church with Pucini concerts each evening -so that’s where we will be at least one night this week.

The next morning it was COOL so after breakfast  we walked around the walls of Lucca. For those who know Lucca you know how beautiful that is.  It was fresh and shaded as the sun came out. Lots of bikes but today we walked. It was gorgeous.
Finished with coffee and back to the apartment to freshen up for the afternoon activities which included a stroll around the rain washed streets. The shops stayed closed  all day so things were quiet.
Saw lots of art students drawing and painting and I thought I really should be getting my sketch book book out. Di Kelly gave me a lovely little sketch book to encourage some drawing. I will do it !

In the evening we found a lovely little trattoria called Sergios and it was a really good family run place. I had wild boar stew with polenta. Yum

Tomorrow will visit the language school which happens to around the corner!
Then a bus ride to nearby Barga

Ci vediamo readers

Lerici to Lucca

Up in time to pack,  tidy up and have coffee with the 2 nonnas at the bar near the Castillo. Over the last few days they have come to expect to see us each day for a cool drink after our walk up hill. Today it’s arrivederci as we struggle down with our bags.

Got Lericis best taxi driver. He chatted to us all the way to Sarzanna -in Italian ( and a little English)
He was so nice and so loves this area. Told us all the things we should be staying on to see and do. Yes it is a beautiful area and not  over run with tourists. Almost everyone on holidays are  from areas north of here -including Milan.

Got the train -no problems and are now in a lovely apartment just across the road from Luccas famous Guinigi Tower.
More later as I should sleep because tonight is white night -where everything goes all night!

Oh what a night!

Sagra in La Serra

Ieri sera
_last night we went to a Sagra -a kind if food festival in a little village . This one was in a town I had visited before when staying with my niece Berti two years ago. It was a snail Sagra! Each village has one in summer and choose one type of food The Sagra lasts 3 days.
We arrived late after Prosecco in Lerici. At about 9pm we joined the queue to buy tickets  . Met a lovely German girl who told us a few things about the Sagra. Then the fun started. We found a table of people to sit with -in the middle of a long table and it wasn’t long before we got talking to the couple around us including a lovely couple from Milano and a funny couple from nearby San Terenzo.
Imagine
Ragaazzi  swaggering, lights in trees twinkling, music blaring, young lovers kissing, people slurping snails, and seafood, mopping up the  juices with slabs of  bread. Young waiters in blue helping  out. Drinks flowing, cigarette smoke twirling and people young and old heading onto the dance floor including ME!
At midnight Pat  ( and I guessI) had worn ourselves out and didn’t know if we could get a bus or taxi back to Lerici several miles away. I tried to hitch a lift with Franco but his wife wasn’t keen and he only had a bike! Then we met a lovely young woman and when we asked her to phone a taxi for us she said she was going to Lerici. So lucky us-it all turned out ok!

We got back to our village and the film festival was in full swing so we joined all the crowds eating gelato and had one before our 80 step climb home to bed!

Little sleep in before our morning swim. Quiet lunch in our apartment sleep then more Prosecco
dinner and then we went to the outdoor cinema.
Imagine:
Lots of people walking along the sea front, children squealing on the carousel, rows of white chairs facing the large outdoor screen with the twinkling lights of the Golf de Poeti in the background.
Short films ( some with subtitles) some good some silly, one scary. 80 steps home to bed. We leave this lovely place tomorrow morning. Saturday.