All that Jazz

Here in New Orleans or Nuawlins it’s all about Jazz – when it’s not about food and cocktails!

It really is a place for music lovers, young and old.

There is jazz morning and night. Most good. Some great and last night we had some great jazz.

We started with a lovely French dinner at Lilette a very good restaurant across the road. I really do like this Magazine street vibe.

We started with a cocktail- for STEVE a rather powerful one with Mexcal a rather potent tequila type drink! More later!!!!!

Then a mad Uber dash to Frenchman’s Street. I think I mentioned already that the best jazz is found there. You can visit any bar for free jazz as long as you buy one drink per set. So as you make your from club to club you could do some damage.

I bought tickets to a show where the average age of the musicians was around 70. But boy what experience they had. It was spellbinding.

We went to Snug Harbour in Frenchman’s St and behind the small bar & restaurant there is private intimate room. Seating 35 at small tables downstairs and 20 at balcony seats it was just perfect.

The show opened with sax player Charlie who was so cute but could sure blow that sax.

Then we heard George French on the bass. He was one cool cat.

Here’s a sample of what they played. It was wonderful. The timing, the phrasing the sound. All magic.

Charlie Gabriel sax

I get jealous

George French bass

Black magic.

Germaine Basil. Vocals

Almost like being in love

I thought about you

Exactly liky you

In a groove Mary had a little lamb

First you say you will

Everyday I get the blue

Germaine had to be helped up the stage stairs by the youngest member of the group – the pianist. But once there she came alive and jigged and crooned and held us

The drummer was having fun and it showed.

So if you are coming to NOLA it is worth booking something special. These guys had so much experience and such a love of their craft it was intoxicating. Literally ………..

in Steve’s case, as he had two rum punch drinks and felt like he’d been punched. He was so funny coming home in the Uber. Made no sense – except to himself!

Ramblin’ through Nuawlins

We are recovering from the exciting times in Santa Barbara and got out the door a little earlier this morning.

We strolled along Magazine Street looking for a new coffee experience.

I can recommend this area. When you have 5 nights or more you can move away from the frantic pace of somewhere like the French Quarter and experience something more – in this case a very attractive suburb a short bus ride or Uber away from the mad action.

But before today let me tell you about our night of Jazz!

Last night we made it to Frenchman’s Street which is not as so ‘ in your face’ as Bourbon St. And the Jazz is supposed to be better.

We ate at Marigny (my salad was delicious as was my cucumber Cosmo) with ‘Chelsey’ our waitress, another ‘hello sugar’ type of girl. The band was good – trumpet, trombone (to Stephen’s delight!), guitar, percussion with lots of oomph!

Later we walked along the street, calling in at different bars and catching some jazz, searching the street market and loving the street band which had everyone hopping!

I love s bit of street dancing. It took me back to Valparaiso last year where I hit the streets dancing.

One last bar, one last drink and we went home. We had another day to face!

Today, Following coffee we strolled the garden streets zig zagging our way to the famous LaFayette Cemetery. The homes in this area are so beautiful. I could easily move into one.

The cemetery is not big but dates back to the early 1800’s and ‘houses’ some of the wealthy families of that time. Many of those buried here died of yellow fever in the 1800’s. Many little children.

It’s not particularly well cared for but has a good feel about it. There was a lovely monument to the firemen.

We strolled thru (or is that through?) the gates and along to a beautiful bookshop. There were lots of familiar titles and seemed cheaper than home – mind you by the time you add tax and convert against Aus $ it’s not much cheaper anymore.

The same with the food in restaurants. Seems cheaper but by the time you add tax and then the ‘suggested’ tip of 18% or 20% or 25%, it’s not that cheap.

A ride on a tramcar is another NOLA must. So we took the #13 to ‘ the end of the line’ through the Garden area along St Charles Street – which happens to be the route for the Mardi Gras.

Mardi Gras is big here. We even passed Mardi Gras World on the bus tour a few days ago.

The homes along this route are magnificent including the Loyola University, Tulane University and numerous catholic schools where – unlike the state schools – the children wear a uniform.

Back to have lunch at the famous Commander’s Palace restaurant only to be told they were full! So a light lunch was probably a better idea!

Then it was Museum time. Steve was very keen to visit the WW2 (huge) Museum. He was missing Peter H who was supposed to be here with us and would have enjoyed it with him. I decided I wasn’t wanting to see another war museum and would rather art galleries- – and there are lots to choose from.

So off we went in different directions.

Here’s Steves account of the Museum.

A very handsome and modern museum, very well curated with great use of technology and personal insights. You could tell by the reaction of the (mainly American) visitors that it was opening their eyes. I didn’t have time for part of it (return on Friday?) – to see the Boeing sponsored aircraft hall and the building on technology in the war (I also had trouble locating the building covering 1939 to the end of 1942, if you get my drift).

So Steve’s afternoon went well as did mine.

Tonight dinner at a FRENCH restaurant , Lilette across the road from our air bnb.

Tomorrow a bus out to Plantation Alley to visit a grand house.