Meandering down a Kerala River

George and his wife Dai live in the house at the front of the garden block , opposite the river and the 4 homestay rooms are towards the back looking past hammocks slung in trees over to green and golden rice paddies.

From the WebSite:

http://www.gkhomestay-kumarakom.com

‘Situated on the bank of river Meenachil in Aymanam, it is just 3 kilometres from the huge Vembanad lake and bird sanctuary. The village is an unbelievably beautiful paradise of mangrove forests, emerald green paddy (rice) fields and coconut groves interspersed with enchanting water ways and canals adorned with spices and medicinal plants. It is an ideal place to explore Kerala’s traditions, real village life and to stay for a period in a calm and quiet pollution free zone. The village is decorated with ancient Christian churches, Hindu temples, country and snake boats. These snake boats can carry more than 100 rowers at a time. A boat journey through the back waters will be an unforgettable event.

Our rooms are big, simply but well furnished with good basic bathrooms, air con and fans, a fridge, hairdryer! lots of water, and a verandah with fans for relaxing. ‘

Our dinner in the main house was cooked by his lovely wife Di and served by George. Organic home cooking. A vegetarian curry with eggs and potatoes. Delicious. Followed by spiced carrot cake.

His daughter is visiting from Bangalore with her 3 month old baby girl. She’s very sweet and all the Grandmothers wanted a nurse!

George speaks very good English. He worked for 17 years in Oman – for the Sultan ! He has many good stories to tell.

We walked back down the drive to our 4 rooms overlooking the rice padi and had a quiet sleep. This time I have a room on my own and it’s rather nice to spread out.

We got up early in the cool of the morning for a trip in a large canoe down the river at our doorstep.

Our boat man is 75 and took a very leisurely pace along the cool calm river so we could observe the village life.

It’s hard to describe how beautiful and peaceful it was. The bird life is wonderful, the people bathing and washing clothes all waved in a friendly way greeting us with a “how are you” as we passed. We glided past several Catholic churches where the singing was was tuneful and mesmerising.

We saw families washing together, little groups of women in bright coloured saris walking under the shade of the trees.

We glided under bridges waving to the children playing or riding bikes.

The water is covered in places with a water weed and apparently there are river snakes though we didn’t see any.

At one point we stopped and got out to look at what they call a ‘snake boat’. It’s long and decorated and has seats 60. Twice a year at rice harvest there is a race along the river. Four boats compete and the whole village participate. Indians love a festival.

We arrived back at a George’s house for breakfast. Di had made us banana coconut pancakes with a few spices making it a delicious treat.

Then it was our washing day. Just like the village people we washed in buckets (not on stones in the river ) and hung out clothes around the garden – from trees, hammocks and a live slung under the eaves.

We chatted and sorted photos and read up on where we’ll be going next. A late but light lunch was brought to us by George. It was a vegetable curry with idly. Perfect.

Later in the afternoon after a walk it was massage time. I was first and went into the bathroom area of the main house. A lovely lady in a coloured sari was waiting for me. She was not very tall but very sturdy and strong. It was to be a Ayurveda massage with special oils.

All clothes off and into chair where my head and face were massaged first. My hair was pasted with oil and I received the most gorgeous face massage. And head!

Then onto a rather high narrow table covered in a brown coloured plastic and the bathing in Ayurveda oils started. It was heavenly.

But the end of it I felt like a baby being nurtured. It was wonderful.

Getting off the table felt like a fish sliding off a river back and

I slid into the shower room and was given a big bucket of hot water with a little bucket to dip in and tip all over myself.

I floated back to the room for a cup of herbal tea and a lie down.

Linda followed me and had the same expression on her face when she returned an hour later.

George popped by the give us the plans for our evening visit to a temple for a special festival involving elephants. How could we say no!

We planned on leaving by tuk tuk at 6.45.

He also walked us around the garden pointing out the cashew tree and explained how they are harvested and toasted. Then onto the story of this rice padi. He has about an acre which is green and lush and will be harvested in 2 weeks. He wanted to dry it out so will start draining the field tomorrow. Unfortunately for George it looks like rain tonight.

And so it was. As we set off in the tuk tuk it started bucketing down. We drove along exposed to the rain on both open sides of the tuk and after 10 mins headed back home.

Not temple or elephants tonight so an earlier dinner. Fresh caught lake fish in a tomato curry sauce. Amazing flavours. And no one has had an upset stomach.

Another quiet night awaits.

5 thoughts on “Meandering down a Kerala River

  1. The whole experience inKerala sounds divine, what a lovely to round off your very interesting holiday. Lindy must be a really good researcher to come up with all these wonderful experiences.

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  2. You are having such a lovely time!
    Do you want me to pick you up at airport on Saturday afternoon? I will time it on my way home from coast. Do you want to go up the coast Saturday night after concert? Sunday morning? Or not at all?
    Love xxx

    Sent from my iPhone
    Stephen MAITLAND

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  3. Wow, Fran, what an amazing cultural experience you’ve been having. I love the images of the folk alongside the river. Thanks for posting. Bx

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