Today we left a sad faced Trinh for an 8.40 train ride to Hue. 

Our train arrived – not too flash but we were pleasantly surprised to find it was air conditioned. 

We had been told it was a great journey and we weren’t disappointed. It follows the coast north from Hoi An with wonderful views of the water and the jungle. 

The train was crowded , mostly with Vietnamese headed to Hanoi. They were sleeping or eating and quite a few wore the face mask to avoid germs. The trip should have taken about 3 hours but was closer to 4 – but with spectacular scenery we really didn’t mind the occasional hold ups. 

We were entertained by a little boy who took photos of us on his iPad. We figured he would be thinking of us as ‘the old girls’. 

A cart was wheeled through with little plastic trays all ready to be filled with the cooked food in various containers on the trolley and rice in a big red drum. 

We arrived and caught a taxi to our hotel which is just back from the river. 

Hue is the former capital of Vietnam and has many lovely old buildings – though they lost many during the war. It was also the site of the Tet  offensive, one of the worst battles during the Vietnam war. Tomorrow we are going on a tour to the Imperial citadel, where much of the battle was fought. We’re also going on a dragon boat cruise and to visit a pagoda. 

This evening we took a cyclo tour of the city. We only wanted half an hour but of course our drivers made it an hour with several stops along the way for photos. Naturally they also wanted more money. 

It was a funny ride –  along the river and through the main areas of the city. We ran through many reds lights, went down the street the wrong way and overtook buses and cars. Let’s not mention the roundabouts.  We felt lucky to arrive at the end in one piece! 

We then followed up with the worst meal of the trip so far. Very disappointed 😔. Tomorrow we’ll find a bettèr place! 

Why does a whirring fan sound like rain ?

We planned a trip to the beach and when I woke I thought it was raining. But no, it was the fan spinning trying to handle the heat. It’s hot here and is getting hotter each day.

Trinh made us coffee and then a taxi arrived for the ten minute drive to An Bang Beach. I’d had a swim yesterday and convinced the girls an early morning dip would be refreshing .

It couldn’t have looked more different to yesterday afternoon when I had my swim. Yesterday people everywhere – on deck chairs , walking, eating, swimming , playing games. Today the beach was deserted. A lone fisherman was making his way back to the beach in his round coconut style boat and a lady was wiping down the deck chairs. A few others started to appear but we were the only ones who dived in.

We wondered if we could use the deck chairs for a short while. We didn’t plan on a long stay and a  lady helped us set up but didn’t ask for any money so set off for our swim.

It was delicious. Cool, clear and refreshing. We returned to find the old lady wanting money to sit!

Steve would love the lifesaving tower.

Fish dinner!

We didn’t stay long as Trinh was preparing breakfast and we wanted to visit the local area before the heat of the day started.

Breakfast once again was wonderful and Trinh made herself very useful as usual and plaited Marilyn ‘s hair. Is there nothing this woman can’t do!

We planned on the markets. So off we went armed with umbrellas not for rain but for shade. We walked in the streets behind the homestay and found it so calm compared to the busy centre  and of course the other big cities like Hanoi.

We found the local produce market and chatted to a few people and made one man happy when some of the girls bought a vegetable peeler and a few hand towels to mope our now very sweaty brows!

Cool iced coffee was called for and again we made the cafe owners very happy by choosing their cafe. It’s really quiet this time of year in Hoi An. After all the rain, the streets are now clean and everything looks rather fresh. I’m really liking this lovely small city. It’s got a lot of charm and is definitely cleaner than many other Asian cities.

They are gradually paving all the sidewalks. The team were out the gate at our home stay today and a Trinh was not too happy. She was keeping a very close eye on them.

Observing the locals going about their business is great fun. We’ve decided that it’s the women who do most of the work here.  There were groups of men sitting around while the women swept and cooked and minded the children at the same time.

After more walking in the heat we came across this great sign. We stopped to read it ( note point 4) and the owner came over. He was friendly and spoke very good English and was quite the salesman. We had a few laughs and decided to go in and have cool beer – that’s how hot it was. All of us drinking beer!

We eventually got back to Trinh’s where she had another great lunch prepared. She says she likes to make it for us but doesn’t want any payment. Of course we’ll sort something out and give her some money because it’s so very good. Today we had ‘delicious banh xeo It’s a rice pancake stuffed with pork, shrimp and bean sprouts. Yum. Then we had skewers of pork which you pulled off and wrapped in rice paper and stuffed with greenery including lots of herbs before dipping it in a gooey peanut sauce. Then we had mixed vegetables with chilli and a pumpkin dish. And my favourite ‘white rose’ . All delicious and dessert – another smoothie. This one coconut.

Oh the food is so good.

We had to take to our beds to 1. Sleep off the lunch and 2. Get out of the heat.

After our siesta we went walking again in the local area. This time to a spa. The girls there looked positively thrilled we’d chosen their spa! We got the good friendly service that the locals love to  give and for a few dollars we had a foot massage,  a manicure and pedicure.

By now it was wine o’clock and we went to our Mr Friendlys bar for some wine and a bowl of Pho.

Last excitement of the day was definitely settling up our payment to Trinh. It averaged $35 a night for our rooms and  breakfast and lunch. The bill for our clothes. $8 for pants and $8 for tops. $15 for dresses. $8 for a kimono. We paid separately for the fabric but it was so reasonable. Thank you Linda for bringing me to this lovely homestay. What fun.

Tomorrow an early start. A train to Hue.

Pho. A favourite in Vietnam and a favourite of daughter in law Elena.

Today we decided to beat the heat and go for a cycle through the quiet streets and Paddy field surrounding Hoi An. 

Our home stay is half way between the old town and the beaches and it’s easy to get out of the traffic and cycle in calm. 

Off we went…… come along with me. 

Trinh pumped up tyres and we assembled in the courtyard. Marilyn looked gorgeous in her new orange silk pants and top. 

We turned down a quiet road behind the Homestay and greeted the men and women sweeping and building. There’s a lot of building going on in this small city. 

We passed lots of greenery and washing flapping in the warm breeze. 

Along the lane ways between the rice paddies we cycled. 

Past a duck farm. I wonder which restaurant they are headed to ?

Duck farm

Enjoyed the green slightly hazy views across the fields. 

Stopped for a photo. 

Saw several men fishing. 

Thanked the bicycle gods at the altar  for keeping us safe. 

Passed a few day spas and another cow or two. 

Then headed home for breakfast. 

Showered and refreshed we were treated to beautiful omelettes and the freshest of fruits. 

Then another little trip to the fabric shop before our planned manicure pedicure sessions. 

Oh what a time we’re having. 

Kia ora. Well we have experienced that feeling for sure. What is about the wandering Wilsons? They are life’s friendly people. 

This morning Chris went for a short photo opportunity on the golf course outside our villa. He was missing quite some time and we went out looking and there he was chatting away to the only other person within a 1 kilometre radius! Jill and I pondered how they came to meet in a deserted golf course. 
Chris claims he was approached as he took a photo and suddenly he had a new best friend. He knew all about him and his business I. After ten mins talk! 

The Villa was great. Situated on a golf course with views to the sea. Was so peaceful and quiet and I could have stayed a week 

After check out – now that’s another story! We drove to Kaitaia for morning coffee and searched the Main Street for an appropriate cafe. It was narrowed down – due to no other place – to one called The Sh_t Hot Cafe. That will do we thought. With a name like that it’s sure to be ………. Sh_t good. 

It was great. Lovely coffee and lovely people. Especially in the toilets. I was in the only toilet with Jill waiting just outside and heard someone come in and the next minute I could hear chatting. 

I came out and found Jill smiling and chatting and looking at wedding photos. 

Of course she ducked in and I was left to hear about the granddaughter’s wedding – in a tree! And the sobbing grandfather. Jill’s new best friend! So friendly here in New Zealand. 

The things you see along the way ……. the fire station in one small town was opposite a business called The Fryer Station Cafe! ( See pictures below) The chooks at the river edge clucking around us while we waited for the river crossing ferry, the selection of fun cars and vans participating in the Charity Bash, the green rolling hills, the car with the bumper sticker “If you love Jesus honk‘ then underneath in smaller writing ‘ Text while driving if you want to meet him!’ , another one Drink, Drive and Die. 

The many kilometres of little timber fence posts, the unpronounceable place names, a little cemetery with lots of flowers out in the middle of no-where, the new looking signs to schools that are closed and best of all the great roads! All make travelling in this beautiful country interesting and fun. 

Talking of unpronounceable place names. Our friend David Parker said it was easy. Pronounce all the vowels as they are and make all Wh words ( there are a lot) sound like a F…. have a go. Whangaroa is Fangaroa: Whangarei is Fangarei. You get the idea. 

Back onto the road through the greenery towards the Kauri forest with a short stop for lunch at Opononi. We also got advice and booked our accommodation for tonight. The Old Post Office in Paparoa. 
About 25 minutes south we stopped at NZ’s oldest Kauri tree. It is over 2000 years old. The boys were enthralled. Steve renamed it. He said it was a Big Whukka of a Tree’. ( refer back to my ‘ how to pronounce’ guide earlier!) 
Almost at the Post Office B&B where we’ll let Chris be in charge , after his years working at Australia Post. 
Our B&B turned out to be great. I’m heading for the feather bed right now! Deb our hostess is a very funny lady and the place is packed with old tea cups, books and bric a brac. 

Dinner was at the hotel the Thirsty Tui. It’s a ‘gastro pub’. Very nice dinner – not to mention the wine! 

Such fun travelling with the Wandering Wilsons.