Bayeux: beautiful village with a tragic past

We arrived quite late into Bayeux after stopping at Caen about 20km away. There is a very good memorial to the war set in parkland which is well worth a visit. Outside is  the image of a sailor grabbing a girl into a big kiss. Looks rather cute but reading about It shows that it is not a sign of Liberty but of possession. The women is being grabbed and made to submit by a stronger power just like countries in the war were made to submit. Quite powerful.

We found our lovely small hotel B&B La Villa on a lovely green square. Poor Steve carried both bags up the stairs but it was worth it. Once again I’ve chosen well as its  a charming room- big and airy overlooking a green square called ( appropriately) Place Charles de Gaulle. We are starting to hear a lot about Monseuir de Gaulle!

We unpacked a few things then headed off to explore and what a lovely little city it is. Like all lovely French places it has its petit train to carry those not inclined to walk the cobbles. There are lots of green spaces and a little river running through the main part of the little city.

Bayeux though very close to the beaches of the Normandy invasion, suffered very little bombing so the magnificent Cathedral and other buildings  have survived.

As I’m writing this I’m listening to the bells from the Cathedral tolling loudly over the city. Steve thinks it’s s call to beer!

After dinner last night we waited for the wonderful “Lights of Liberty” or ‘Les Lumieres de la Liberte’ a light and sound show. Colourful lights are projected onto a huge tree in the Cathedral square with accompanying music. It was magnificent if just a tad tiring for my ‘tourist’ legs standing in one spot for an hour!

So we fell into our big comfy bed round 11.30 as the show can’t start till it’s dark and that’s around 10.20! Lucky our hotel is very close!

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Last night in St Emilion

Our last night in this wonderful little village and it wasn’t without incident ! 

We did our usual wander around checking out menus and selected Medieval on a corner at the entrance to the village. It had a lovely garden courtyard and was perfect until the rain! We scrambled inside along with the others which made it hot. So after the rain stopped out we went again and then …… 

Drama. A big truck tried to fit up the little street. There was a bollard in the middle of the little cobbled road. But that didnt  stop him …….boom went a tyre. Crash went the bollard and whoosh. Off drove the truck. 

At least he created a drama and had everyone in the little restaurant courtyard chatting like old friends. 

But next morning the workers were there fixing it. 

  
  

  

  

St Emilion

After arriving back in St Emilion we took a tour of the underground church. It brought to life the story of St Emilion, a monk with a vision. He gathered a few thousand workmen and dug an underground cavernous monolithic church apparently modelled on  one he saw in Cappadoccia. This was when he wasn’t meditating in his small Chapel where he lived in solitude for several years. I love these stories. It’s amazing what one shy monk can do. 

 

the undergound Church of St Emilion

 
The hour long tour keep us cool and the history lesson was great as well. All English speakers and it’s funny how you can identify other Australians in a group. The older ones all have a “Chips Rafferty” look of weathered skin and dry humour and the younger ones look like they would rather be back on the beach in Biarritz. The English are easy to see in their socks and sandals, and the Americans…….. Well we didn’t have any on tour , so I don’t have to be careful about what I say  John Donati!  

 

I know I’m not in Italy but i couldn’t resist!

 
Following that tour we visited our bar with the fan misters for a quick beer then headed off for an hour in the vineyards. The area is very pretty with vines growing in neat even rows with large chateaux sitting in the middle of the vineyards making everything look like a fairytale. Even the Chanel family own a property here. One of the owners came over to our group ( not Mr Chanel I would have recognised the loafers) and on hearing we were from Australia said ” very good Shiraz from there” We felt quite patriotic! 

 

Looking back across rhe vineyards towards St Emilion.

 
 

Neat even rows.

 

St Emilion to Bordeaux and back : Monday 3

Our lovely room at the B&B overlooks one of the main cobbled streets into St Emilion but there was very little noise. It’s a rather hushed small town. Probably because of the heat and the wine tastings. People are moving slowly and quietly around the streets. 

So we slept well, did our hand washing and headed off to Libourne for a train to Bordeaux. It only takes a half hour so we were there by 10.30. The city sits along the river Girond and has a beautiful stretch of river with gorgeous low rise pale stone buildings with decorative balconies in the style of Louis XV. There is an open plaza with beautiful tall trees in rows providing shade and cool. The buildings are superb. Decorative without being gaudy. 

We decided the city looked too big for the few hours we allowed so we took a small yellow bus tour. The bus  is a single story with only 20 seats and gives an hour overview to the main sites around the city. It got off to a very funny start as when we went to get on having booked, there were no seats for us and about 8 others. No one owned up to being on the wrong bus so the driver had to get his superior to come and check the tickets! Very funny as a group of Spaniards had missed their earlier bus and decided this one would suit. They refused to get off and there was a bit of an Opera unfolding but the French won the war and off we went. 

 Come along as I show you some photos 

 

The main plaza covered in trees.

 
 

Girondiers monument in the main square.

 
  
 

Beautiful green space where there had been a guillotine for public beheadings!

 
  

  

At Emilion. Sunday 

After a slightly slower start we headed off this morning when most the town were still asleep. We had another lovely walk and swim  and the weather just keeps getting better. In sure now we are heading away from the sea it will get hot!

I did a quick pack – funny how I start to just throw things in the case as opposed to the careful rolling I did before I left.

Then off we went towards Bordeaux. First stop Bergerac,  a small town I had been keen to check out. I’ve read a few books set  in this area and really enjoyed poking around the ancient streets.

Sundays  in these villages have a different atmosphere. They are slow and lazy with groups sitting at long tables enjoying a slow lunch. Most shops were closed so it was all about the food and the wine. And this is a wine area. The Bordeaux wines are well known and we were keen to sample a few. Though with the warm weather all we managed in Bergerac was an icy granita!

On to St Emilion which is a picturesque town on a small hill. Colours are muted – pale honey colours dominate. Not the white with grey slate of the Loire or the blue shutters of Provence.

The town was stuffed full of tourists and we felt quite smug to be staying in a really nice B&B at the entrance to the town. Doing my homework when it comes to finding accomodation really pays off. So far really good places.

We walked up and around the cobbled streets working up a thirst until we reached a quaint square with tables surrounded by fans blowing misted cool air. Sold ! A beer and vino later – accompanied by foie gras a little  a local specialty, we were feeling more human and rested.

We found a good place for dinner and  I promise myself each day that I will not eat too much. But I’m not very strong over here when  confronted with delicious food. Mind you I’m still staying away from gluten, so no bread or pastries for me. It’s SO hard.

Lovely B&B St Emilion. les Chambre d’Ovaline

 
 

Sitting in the pink. at our B&B

  
 

What a day : Saturday

What a day. We got to Mark and Lauren Chisholm’s house by 2 pm, for a meet and greet and the odd glass of champagne. Lauren has her sister, brother in law and their 2 children staying from London. Also her brother from Australia, his American wife and their 2 children. Her sister and her new husband ( another Rugby player with the Force) Her parents Bill and Lynne Campbell ( also a former Wallaby) sensibly choose to stay at the beautiful Palace Hotel in Biarritz. We met Lauren and Mark’s 5 children who are all adorable and toured their lovely big French house. 

Today was like being in the land of the Giants. Wherever we went in Bayonne people stared! Bill Campbell is huge and then there is Mark 6’6, his two brothers’ in law both 6’5 and another brother in law small at 6.1! Poor Steve! 

Bayonne was awash in red and white and the whole Fete was like the Ekka, the Royal Easter Show, Expo, the running of the Bulls, a huge pop concert all rolled into one city! People were friendly and chatty. Everyone was having fun dancing, drinking yes, but not to excess ( except maybe for our little group who were trying hard!)
We had a long lunch that started at 3 and ended I’m not sure when. Then we walked around the city and looked at dancing, a band, some singing and did a bit of bar hopping. After awhile the “oldies” decided to pull the plug and head for home. However party boy Bill stayed behind with the kids.

We got back to the hotel round 10 and Steve has hit the bed already. 

  

Morning swim: Saturday 

We headed to the beach this morning which means a walk from our hotel down a zig zag path surrounded by trees to a long promenade along the beach. The clouds were threatening but nothing happened. Steve took to the water and the lifeguard he met yesterday waved and told me he was a very good swimmer! It was too cold for me so I watched as lots of mainly young people arrived for their surfing lessons. 

It’s the same all the world over. Young surfy types with salty hair, chapped lips and weathered skin gathered the novice surfers around for instruction before hitting the baby waves. 

   
   
They warmed up and went out – several looking pumped as they managed to stand up. 

Meanwhile I walked along the beach front hoping Steve didn’t disappear on me!  About 40 mins later he walked out of the water in between the startled surfers. 

Later we wandered downtown and had breakfast before exploring the town centre and the beautiful beaches. The sun is slowly coming out and we are preparing for our visit to Mark and Lauren. We’ve bought our red basque neckties ready for the festival. It comes from Pamplona in the Basque Country of Spain. Here they have cow chases instead of bull running ! 

   
  Note the bags and sleeping bodies!
Sand sculptures   
    
   
We enjoyed the scenes round the coast. It’s awash with young people wheeling bags and sleeping on the beach. We guessed they were sleeping off hangovers while waiting for their flights out in this afternoon. We even caught sight of a man having a beach shower and cleaning his teeth. What a good boy! 

It’s finally sunny and warm and we’re off to Bayonne for the Fete. 

Night out in Biarritz

We made our way to the Centre Ville and found where the crowds like to gather. I had discoveted this area this afternoon near Les  Halles- the market area and guessed there would be action tonight. Sure enough it was starting to pump by the time we got there around 7.30. We got a drink,  grabbed a table and started to participate in my favourite holiday activity. People watching! 

It was a mixed crowd of locals – I guessed after closing up shop, tourists, many with babies in strollers, the older ones from near and far, and many young ones dressed in the uniform of La Fete. 

We drank and watched until finally we moved up the ‘eat street’ and got a table at Bistro Les Halles. We sat at a street table with a good view and a cool breeze and I was pleased I’d brought my trusty black cashmere cardigan along. For heavens sake – it’s summer but feels cool and like winter in Brisbane. 

We enjoyed a nice meal.  Served a little cool but hey,  everything is cool tonight! Including the people! We saw one guy who was a vision in pink. Now I know the French (and Italian) men like red pants but these were a deep pink with a lighter pink shirt and a deep pink jumper round his thin bony shoulders. Not a good look and as he and his partner? (Female)  walking up the street heads turned! 

Back to dinner!!! Steak for Steve , duck and veg on skewers for me. We shared a bottle of red. A Medoc from Burgandy. Are there any bad wines round here? 

Finally back to the hotel to our very generous sized room ( this isn’t Paris) some photo downloading and before you know it Steve’s asleep! 

So a few photos from tonight then bed