Travel

Palazzo Tour

/ brisbanefrannie / 3 Comments
  • There’s something lovely about breakfast on a terrace with a beautiful view. Do you agree?

Today we sat on the terrace and had coffee and planned our day.


We planned a trip to the beach but before we left we spoke to Sonia our host at the Palazzo. I asked could we have a tour of the house as our Swiss friends had yesterday and told us the owners were happy to show guests their house.

She was lovely and organised her father to take us.

We had to walk out our door No 27 and along to No 39 -they own it all. We re entered and Luigi Senape was there to greet us. He guided us through their private Palazzo. Too many rooms to count. All very luxurious. He explained the family history – all in Italian and we understood almost all.

Luigi Senape in one of the tooms of the Palazzo

The Palazzo has been in the family for 300 years. Luigi grew up in this place and like his father was an advocat – a lawyer.

There are many old valuable items in the house including 3 pianos,  one a grand which Luigi plays.


He was so charming and at the end told us he was 88.


In the library Steve saw a Dan Brown book he had just finished. He pointed it out and said (in his best Italian) that he had just read it.


Later in the afternoon, after our trip down the coast I saw his daughter and she asked if my husband was Dan Brown!

Lost in translation!

So after the Grand Tour we left for the rest of our day…….

A drive down the coast road to the tip of Italy. A little seaside place called Santa Maria da Leuca.

To get there we drove past : hundreds if not thousands of Italian beach lovers with their umbrellas, plastic deck chairs, buckets, spades, blow up play things. And all the women wear bikinis. Young, old, thin and not so thin. I’m definitely overdressed.

It’s a colourful scene and proves its not just Australians who love the beach!

We stopped for coffee at a little beach side cafe. All blue and white tables and a smiley, friendly nonna served us – but it was very windy so we didn’t swim.

image

We passed trattorias, osterias, cafes, apertivi bars, camping grounds, holiday homes with shutters down against the heat or …..perhaps they were empty?

We arrived at SS d Leuca in time for a lovely swim and picked a place for lunch right on the beach. The place in the photo above the blue umbrellas.


Once again simple delicious food

We watched the swimmers and soaked up the atmosphere.

Naturally we finished with a gelato – just a small one! As we walked also the promenade.

We arrived back at Gallipoli and our Palazzo Senape and decided to take another swim. This time at the beach at the end of our street.

I love the blue mats running down the sand so when you get out you don’t have to get sandy! This beach unlike many of the rocky beaches has coarse sand.

image

We’re back at the Palazzo writing and preparing for dinner at Bastion a lovely looking restaurant recommended by our hosts.

More later!

Lecce you are Lovely

/ brisbanefrannie / 7 Comments

Today is Friday and we are feeling sad about the terrible tragedy in Nice. Travel is wonderful but these days there is an element of danger. But we won’t let it stop us.

So today we met our guide for the day. Lovely Simona. I found her website and booked a three hour tour. It’s great going with a local and as it turned out she lives around the corner from our apartment.IMG_2019

We set off and she began to tell us about life in Lecce both now and in the past. She is a born and bred local,  though her partner Tim, she described as more English than the Queen !

We walked and she pointed out the features on the buildings. This was a wealthy area in days gone by due  to production of wine, olives  and tobacco.  There are a number of large Palazzo, now either privately owned or broken into apartments. In this way it’s like the very lovely areas of Rome.



We looked at the markings above the doors, the churches, Cathedral and Basillica. They all have a story.


The really interesting thing about Lecce is the use of  Cartapesta or paper mâché as as an art form. Used to make statues,  it is particular to this area. It’s used in Venice for making masks but here it’s in the churches. You can hardly tell the difference between the statues made from Paper mâché , wood and stone. Such craftsmen.


We visited one shop in a quiet area behind the Cathedral and had a nice talk with the owner.  A lovely lady named Stefania. Ginetta – you and Em would love this work. Her more modern work is also amazing. She had made a bustier you would love and a dress. And a mermaid!


We looked at the altars of different style – Baroque and Renaissance.


Baroque

Renaissance

Such beauty in one place.

We had to stop for a refreshment. A coffee over ice with a dash of almond milk to make it sweet. Delicious. It’s called ‘Cafe in Ghiaccio con latte Di Mandorle’.

More walking and talking and noticing things we would otherwise have missed – including the drain cover marked with the city symbol of the she-wolf and the oak tree; and the fascist symbol from the 1930’s.


Significant symbols everywhere.

We retreated to our apartment for a piccolo siesta and to catch up with the Tour de France

Then it was time for our passeggiata. We walked, we shopped, we had a glass of wine and we watched others doing the same.

IMG_2027

Dinner was at Osteria 203 recommended by Simona. It was a beautiful meal with a gorgeous bottle of local red. To make it more special we watched a parade go past our restaurant. It was to take St Carmine back to her church. Accompanied by a band. Steve thought the band almost unique – not because of the typical Italian playing con gusto and slightly off key – but of the 40 or so members, no three of them were in step even with each other!

IMG_2030

IMG_2034

After dinner walked some more and visited another lovely shrine  – the most popular Gelateria named Natale. What a place.

IMG_2037

Buona notte my friends

Please leave a comment about something you love when you travel

 

 

The Sassi of Matera

/ brisbanefrannie / 2 Comments

Most Australians don’ t put Matera, in the little known Province of Basilicata, on their list of places to visit in Italy.  

Now I’m wondering why not?

It’s an amazing place. Built into the caves of the hill, the houses are centuries old. Matera consists of 2 Sassi. Sassi Caveoso and Sassi Barisano.  Picture a butterfly:  it’s body is the ridge where the now new town is built and the wings either side are the two Sassi. The caves are stacked so the path you walk down is actually the roof of the cave below.  
We are staying in  Sassi Caveoso in a B&B in an old cave. It’s a wonderful experience.


When we arrived yesterday and looked down from the ridge I wondered at my stupidity at booking something that looked inaccessible by car. But it turned out you can drive down a narrow winding street drop of the bags then drive up park and walk in. Steve managed it all very well!

Looking back across to our cave B&B. its the one above the lone white umbrella on the piazza 

But it’s worth it. Tizianna our host at the B&B only speaks Italian so I have had to use my Italian to speak to her. She’s charming and even understood my request for gluten free.

Our bedroom has a terrace and we look at the Sassi across from us. Last night we had dinner at Francesca’s just near the B&B. It was very good. I had a gluten free pasta with canelli beans, mussels in a pesto sauce. Delicious.

Then as we were preparing for bed there was an almighty BOOM across the valley. The most colourful fireworks started and went on for ages. We sat on the terrace and enjoyed the front row seat. I asked Tizianna what it was all about and she said it was the festival of the local Saint – a festival that lasts two weeks and last night was the conclusion.

This morning we had breakfast on the terrace before heading off to meet Antonio on the ridge looking down over the Sassi. He was a lovely young man. So good looking it was distracting!

Lovely Antonio our guide 

We  joined a family group from Ireland and they were perfect to have on the walking tour with us. Antonio led us all around the Sassi telling us stories about how the caves were used in the past and how they are used now. He pointed out they have just transformed over 3,000 years as the uses changed. They have always been occupied.

Then in the 1950’s the Government removed the occupants and bought all the cave houses. The living conditions were so bad that was the only way forward. Now the city has developed a tourism industry that comes from the uniqueness of these strange houses. So people are leasing the houses back – for almost nothing , then the new occupants renovate them and start businesses. Like the one we are in – Le Corte dei Pastori.  
He told us Matera is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and has been chosen as one of two cities in the world to be listed in  2019 as a cultural centre so they will be expecting many more tourists to come. So if you are planning to come make sure it’s before the large group tour companies put it on their list.

We walked with Antonio for 3 hours in and out of cave houses, churches and lookouts and ignored the heat bearing down on us. It was so interesting and Antonio was very knowledgable. And did I mention good looking?

There were 156 churches in this city. Big ones and little ones in caves

We finished at 1pm and made our way to a cafe with beer. Steve is in training to swim the straits of Messina on Wednesday.

The segways here are shaped like a Vespa at the front. All different colours. 

So this afternoon we are having a siesta. Such a great idea.

Has anyone been to Matera? Let me know what you think about the place.

A day to explore

/ brisbanefrannie / Leave a comment

We left Alberobella this morning after witnessing the fun run and visited a few nearby villages.

 

Runners making it in the heat.

 

A little boy stretches with his dad after the run.

I’m pleased we booked to stay there. Alberobella is a very interesting village  but keep in mind that it is touristy. Arrive late in the afternoon when most the visitors are leaving.

We then stopped in Locorotonda which is another very nice village.

When visiting a church we happened upon a Christening. A little girl named Georgia. She was very good but after awhile got grizzly and cried. So Nonna to the rescue. She came forward out of her seat. Squeezed some drops into a dummy and pushed it in the baby’s mouth. Instant quiet. Sedation works!

Baby Georgia being met at the door to the Church. Before sedation

As we drove we got closer the sea. This is the Golf of Taranto the bit between the point and the heel of Italy’s boot.

 

A cluster of Trulli

 

A beautiful park in Locorotonda

 

Everyone seems to have a small garden outside their door

Arriving in Matera was breath taking.

 

The Sassi of Matera has been used in many films. Including Jesus …..with Mel Gibson

 

Top Travel Hints

/ brisbanefrannie / 3 Comments

People who travel learn along the way……… and often get asked for a few suggestions!

Well I have certainly been learning over the years and I think I’m a much better traveller than I was in the early days.

So what are these hints?  Some are to do with: Packing! Flying! Accommodation! Getting around and Eating!

Packing:

The old rule “don’t take too much” is so important.

In the days before you leave, put everything out on a spare bed and don’t pack till the day/night before you leave. This gives you a chance to review what you are taking and then NOT add things when you do pack  – just because you have some space…..resist the temptation to add!

It doesn’t really matter how long you are going for, 3-6 weeks or longer you tend to need the same amount of clothing. I find no matter what the season you need things in 3’s:   1-2 dresses if summer,  3 bottoms, 3 tops , 3 sets underwear,3 scarves ( 2 and a pashmina) 3 pairs shoes and a light jacket or cashmere cardigan or heavier coat for winter. I find it easier to wash as I go  (use hotel shampoo if you don’t take any wash)  so having more clothes is too much. I get favourite outfits and wash and wear them a lot.

It might be different on a cruise but then you have to be clever. Go for a base colour – black /navy and add highlight colours to make it look different. 3 of everything !

In the suitcase I always roll – it really does stop creases. I also pack underwear in large ziplock bags . Always makes it easy to find in the case and also good for dirty clothes. I pack my shoes in the socks you get from the airlines One for each shoe. keeps them from touching the clothes. Into the shoes  – if there is space,  I put vitamin bottles or travel electrical plugs. anything small

Aim for no more than 14kilo in weight.Then you can manage your bag easily.

Flying:

When booking try and get your seats sorted early. Everyone will have their own way of choosing their “best ” seat but a few little tips include:

In a row of 3, if there are 2 of you, book an aisle and a window and hope no one chooses to put themselves in the middle…. If it’s not a full flight it will be left. If someone turns up then one of you will offer to swap and give them an aisle or window. They’ll love you!

Pay extra for extra leg room in bulk head but avoid bulkhead with cots! Go onto seat guru and look at the seating suggestions.

Don’t take too much on board. I only  take only  1 bag  on board. Not a handbag AND a carry on. It’s too much to carry or wheel through a big airport. I use a Longchamp medium size bag and take: passport holder, small wallet  – not my usual big one, phone, ipad with books and podcasts loaded, small bag of essential toiletries  – small deodorant, nose drops, eye drops, sample sized face cream, lipstick, a few pantyliners ( yes girls they keep your undies fresh) pawpaw cream,toothbrush (though they give them out on board) earplugs,  – spare set underwear, and light change of clothes ( leggings and long top: or light dress if going to summer (and these one one of the sets of 3 clothes!)  and always a wrap. Try not to lug around magazines, bottles of creams all too heavy.

Accommodation:

Hopefully you get the right accommodation. Check out the blog post ” How to pick the perfect accommodation”. Use the search button to help you find it.

Getting Around:

Make use of your phone. You can either get a new travel sim for your own phone OR buy a cheap preloaded phone when you get there OR check out where you are going first and see if there is a company offering phones for rental when you arrive. There is a good one in Paris called Insidr Paris . Comes loaded with helpful apps like maps and Uber, links to museums etc

Make use of the buses and trains and buy tickets in bulk to save time lining up.

Walk as much as you can. It’s the best way of getting to know a place – even in strange cities. Take walking tours. They are usually run by interesting people and don’t cost a lot – some are free.

Use maps on your phone  when walking. Load where you are going when you have wifi and then  follow on your phone. I also use my ipad . It’s better than the tom-tom.  On the ipad –  you are the blinking blue spot,  so you can tell where you are!!!!

Very good for the person without the map reading gene!

Use trip advisor forums to investigate how to get to and from the airport. There is always someone with a great suggestion.

Safety:

We always make copies of important documents and then email them to ourselves. Passport details, insurance forms, bank numbers, itinerary, bookings, plane flight details. This works in the case of theft or missing luggage.

Eating

We all love food – but it costs so much you have to be smart. Avoid tourist places . They may have enticing menus but are generally boring and have way too many frittes, fries, chips what ever you call them in foreign  lands. Once or twice but after that no more frittes. Go local. Follow locals! They know where all the good food is served. Ask the local shop keeper, apartment owner, barman, little old lady. People are friendly and will give great suggestions.

 

 

 

Not long till the next Swim Trek

/ brisbanefrannie / 6 Comments

To get you in the mood I have included this to tell you how I got into swimming!

Life is going swimmingly!

“You do realise this swim trek is a swift swim?”

That sentence leapt from the email. What have I done I asked myself?

My husband, a keen swimmer was wanting to go on a swim trek holiday. Some people choose walking holidays , some choose to cycle (activities I enjoy)  but my husband wanted to swim! “I don’t swim” I said. “You’ll love it!” replied my husband!

I did think it sounded great,  puttering around on a boat in the blue waters of Sardinia, enjoying the scenery whilst my husband swam.  Then I found out I couldn’t go on the boat unless I was a swimmer! I’d be left at the hotel on a small island all day by myself.

So I decided to take up swimming.

0c0a2-p1050612

To start with, I couldn’t swim the length of a 50 metre pool, so I quickly switched to a 25 metre pool and took a few lessons. I’d recently retired so had time to get to the pool each day and swim. Slowly. Up and down.

I was slow. So I added fins. I persisted. I started to enjoy it.

I counted down the days till we left. I checked the website describing the swims we would be doing – 2-3km a day. Each day. Every day for 6 days!

Then we had to email our swim times over 1km. Proudly I entered 32 mins. I was quite chuffed that I could even swim a kilometre. Then that email arrived. A Swift Swim. As opposed to their usual leisurely slow swims – let’s enjoy the scenery type swim. I was the slowest by far.  Longer distances for more experienced swimmers.

I replied quickly saying I would wear fins , would improve daily, and know when to get out of the water. They agreed. I’m not sure if I was pleased or not.

We arrived on the beautiful island of La Maddalena  and I felt physically ill during the orientation chat,  when meeting our fellow swimmers  and telling “our swim story”. I was the least experienced swimmer, and despite my husband’s constant encouragement started to wonder about my stupidity at joining the swim.

On the first day I hyperventilated during the orientation 300 metre swim. It was only our beautiful, caring, encouraging guide, Italian Francesco, my fellow swimmers and my husband who kept encouraging me that I did some of the afternoon swim.

e0117-photo2b5-783637

Francesco

Then slowly and surely I got in to swim a little after the other swimmers had started. About 3 km after! Then on day two I swam about 2 1/2 km. The next day I jumped in earlier and sure enough covered about 3 1/2 km. And each day it increased and as it did so did my confidence and my enjoyment. The swims were challenging, safe, but most of all fun. The waters were clear and beautiful and I would hate to have missed out.

At the end of the week’s fantastic farewell dinner I was presented with Francesco’s ‘Capo Bianco’ for the most improved swimmer. What an honour! The friends we made on that first trek have remained friends and we have swum together several times, included a crossing of the Strait of Gibraltar – from Spain to Morocco. No I didn’t do that!

Who would have guessed that 3 years later with 2 more swim treks to Sardinia and gorgeous Greece I would become a very keen swimmer. I’ve joined a local squad and though still not very fast and still sometimes using fins, I actually love swimming.

July 2nd we start our week-long swim trek in Montenegro. I’ll keep you posted on my swim journey. I’ll be sending in a post to this blog. Read along as I swim!

 

Who said you were too old to take up a new sport?

 

 

 

Never too late to start a new career

/ brisbanefrannie / 14 Comments

Am I too old?

Am I able to learn something new?

Sure I can……..

Over the past two days I’ve had the opportunity to write two applications.

Both involve blogging and I’m excited.

The first one is with Swim Trek. As you know Steve and I do swimming holidays and I usually blog about it.

Swim trek recently advertised for a guest blogger to submit daily blog posts about the trek.

I shot off an application and have just heard they have accepted me.

How exciting. They will publish my posts from our July swim trek in Montenegro, on their website  – so lots more readers.

The second application is for Luxury Escape Travel. They are looking to give a  Senior Internship ( a little like the movie The Intern).They train you up for a few days then send you off to Luxury resorts to both blog and vblog about the experiences.

Pick me I say.

Not feeling as confident about this one. There are so many talented people out there. But I’ll give it a go.

Fingers xxxxx It would be great fun and give me great experience.

I’ll let you know how I go.

Wish me luck – in the comments box.

 

 

 

 

From Farm to Table. Cooking class in the Cambodian country side. 

/ brisbanefrannie / Leave a comment

I’m getting used to little omelet for breakfast ! Not that I need food today. It’s cooking school day!

Our pick up by tuk tuk was arranged by the cooking school and right on 10 our lovely man arrived and we set off for a 45 min ride. The best part was arriving in the countryside. Bumping down the dusty red lanes looking out of the Cambodian countryside was a treat. Come along……


 It was as though the people here have more skills and pride in their surroundings than those poorer people in the bigger towns. The fields were green and productive growing Durians, rice, corn all types of vegetable with cows wandering and a few pigs sitting under a tree.

We eventually turned off at a lake know as the secret lake. It was man made during the Khmer Rouge time , hand dug by the Cambodians they had taken captive. It looks lovely now surrounded by trees and hills in the background. It doesn’t even hint at the blood that was shed in its making. We had to get out of the tuk to get up the hill at the end of the causeway and then continued along the road past fields with workers toiling in the heat.

  
We arrived at the farm and walked in from the parking area. We crossed a creek on a 2 plank bridge and went past newly planted corn, papaya trees, banana trees, basil, eggplant, pumpkin, lemongrass, galangal, chilli, kaffir lime….. All ingredients we were to use later.

Our host and chef, Sok Lin greeted us wearing a cute little peaked cap. He told us to make ourselves at home before the tour of the farm to collect our vegetable for today’s dishes. There was a blackboard menu leaning against a tree with about 8 dishes. We could each choose one to cook later.

We relaxed in hammocks slung from the open walls of the kitchen.

Then Sok came back and with an  offsider his young neighbour – a boy 14 who looked about 10. He was so cute.  They walked us around the small but very productive farm. He used to have a restaurant in Kampot but decided he wanted to use his own ingredients so moved here with his English wife and they live very simply and run a cooking school with very basic amenities.

  
 There is an open kitchen, their house next door is just a room and verandah up off the ground. Another thatched area for their things. Then a short distance away 3 thatched huts on stilts,  a toilet and shower area – thatched with tiled floors. No electricity. Powered by cow dung ! Garden fertilizer from the toilet. Self sustaining and clean and neat.

The cooking started and we all were given our ingredients , told what to do then just went ahead with Sok watching and guiding.

the young helper and out tuk driver

El being watched by the young helper

 

peter grating hte cocnut to make the fresh coconut milk!

 

 

Sok lin keeping watch as we chop

Results were delicious. Peter did pepper chicken, Steve masaman  curry, El a yellow curry and I did smoky eggplant with chicken.

It seemed easy! But I think if you have the right ingredients it is easy to make good, tasty nutritious meals. And here they do it so cheaply and not in large amounts.

Now I’m writing this lying in a hammock relaxing until our hour tuk tuk ride home.

Back into the tuk for a bumpy but very pleasant ride home through the country side. Some great sights!

 

local boys collecting little fish from mud puddles

 

Tonight a sunset cruise.

St Emilion

/ brisbanefrannie / 2 Comments

After arriving back in St Emilion we took a tour of the underground church. It brought to life the story of St Emilion, a monk with a vision. He gathered a few thousand workmen and dug an underground cavernous monolithic church apparently modelled on  one he saw in Cappadoccia. This was when he wasn’t meditating in his small Chapel where he lived in solitude for several years. I love these stories. It’s amazing what one shy monk can do. 

 

the undergound Church of St Emilion

 
The hour long tour keep us cool and the history lesson was great as well. All English speakers and it’s funny how you can identify other Australians in a group. The older ones all have a “Chips Rafferty” look of weathered skin and dry humour and the younger ones look like they would rather be back on the beach in Biarritz. The English are easy to see in their socks and sandals, and the Americans…….. Well we didn’t have any on tour , so I don’t have to be careful about what I say  John Donati!  

 

I know I’m not in Italy but i couldn’t resist!

 
Following that tour we visited our bar with the fan misters for a quick beer then headed off for an hour in the vineyards. The area is very pretty with vines growing in neat even rows with large chateaux sitting in the middle of the vineyards making everything look like a fairytale. Even the Chanel family own a property here. One of the owners came over to our group ( not Mr Chanel I would have recognised the loafers) and on hearing we were from Australia said ” very good Shiraz from there” We felt quite patriotic! 

 

Looking back across rhe vineyards towards St Emilion.

 
 

Neat even rows.

 

At Emilion. Sunday 

/ brisbanefrannie / 1 Comment

After a slightly slower start we headed off this morning when most the town were still asleep. We had another lovely walk and swim  and the weather just keeps getting better. In sure now we are heading away from the sea it will get hot!

I did a quick pack – funny how I start to just throw things in the case as opposed to the careful rolling I did before I left.

Then off we went towards Bordeaux. First stop Bergerac,  a small town I had been keen to check out. I’ve read a few books set  in this area and really enjoyed poking around the ancient streets.

Sundays  in these villages have a different atmosphere. They are slow and lazy with groups sitting at long tables enjoying a slow lunch. Most shops were closed so it was all about the food and the wine. And this is a wine area. The Bordeaux wines are well known and we were keen to sample a few. Though with the warm weather all we managed in Bergerac was an icy granita!

On to St Emilion which is a picturesque town on a small hill. Colours are muted – pale honey colours dominate. Not the white with grey slate of the Loire or the blue shutters of Provence.

The town was stuffed full of tourists and we felt quite smug to be staying in a really nice B&B at the entrance to the town. Doing my homework when it comes to finding accomodation really pays off. So far really good places.

We walked up and around the cobbled streets working up a thirst until we reached a quaint square with tables surrounded by fans blowing misted cool air. Sold ! A beer and vino later – accompanied by foie gras a little  a local specialty, we were feeling more human and rested.

We found a good place for dinner and  I promise myself each day that I will not eat too much. But I’m not very strong over here when  confronted with delicious food. Mind you I’m still staying away from gluten, so no bread or pastries for me. It’s SO hard.

Lovely B&B St Emilion. les Chambre d’Ovaline

 
 

Sitting in the pink. at our B&B