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THE THEATRE OF HYDRA

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Hydra

 
Our arrival in Hydra was a relief. Glad to get off the boat onto this lovely little island. 

The donkeys of Hydra

It’s a little like a theatre. The small harbour sits in the middle of a very round bay. The land looks like the stalls and the water is the stage. And what a busy stage it is – boats scampering in and out, water taxis called seabirds flittering around, donkeys in various shades of donkey brown lumbering slowly with their load of bags and shops goods, tourists with sun hats perched, cats sitting to attention in front of the fishing boats hoping for a morsel, shop keepers on watch for anyone interested in their goods and the cafe sitters watching it all from the stalls.

Beautiful port of Hydra
Fishermen selling fish with a cat waiting ……
 
A porter met us – I was disappointed we didn’t get a donkey with our porter but we had a man with a cart. Remember there are no vehicles on Hydra! 
 
We walked  away from the harbour through narrow streets which opened after a short distance to a wide tree-lined paved street (no cars). and with every step I was hoping it wouldn’t be too far or steep. Chris has hurt his hip and is walking rather gingerly. I had booked a guest house which had great reviews. It’s set back a little and overlooks the harbour. It turned out to be an easy 5 min walk back which in fact almost takes you to the edge of this pretty town. Then the houses go climbing up the surrounding hills. It’s quite dramatic. 
 
The guest house is lovely. The stone used, a beautiful golden honey colour, is larger and has a lot of concrete around it. Our house had some steps up which gave us the view back to the water. The rooms are lovely and I’m on the same terrace as the Wilsons. 

 
We unpacked and headed back to the harbour for a drink. We joined the front stall sitters and enjoyed our first viewing of the theatre of Hydra. But not before having a quick look at some of the little shops dotted along the front opposite the water. The first one had some lovely things and many discounts. It’s every close to the end of the season and all prices are dropped. I suspect they are elevated before being dropped. Jill and I did our usual – “I’ll try this – you try that and we’ll swap.”  Jill had her eye on a very smart navy and white, light cotton jumper (see photo as to who bought it!  And then wore it out of the shop due to cool breezes)

Aperitif in our new jumpers
 
After our aperitif we headed to a little restaurant recommended by Rick Steve.
It was run by a husband and wife team who were just hilarious. He had spent the day in Athens and left most the work to her. They quickly pointed out what they had that was fresh and we ordered. He then came out of the kitchen disappeared for while and returned with meat on a plate. He buys as he goes from the very nice butcher nearby.  Very good food.  I’m getting to love the Greek starters. Each night we share one or two and tonight we shared stuffed peppers and zucchini balls. Delicious. 
 
And so to bed. Lovely comfy room and quiet area. 

 Until. ……..

 
THE NEXT MORNING: 
 
Noise:  dogs barking, roosters crowing, someone sawing, children talking on their way to school located near the guest house. Even with earplugs in the noise was amazing. No sleeping in past 7am. 
 
I caught up on my photo sorting and we had a little fruit breakfast in our rooms before heading to the harbour for coffee and a little pastry. 
 
Then a little more browsing the shops, taking photos (this is a photographers paradise) and then a walk along the path leading away from town to the next bay. What a gorgeous walk it was. The sea is still a little rough so no one was swimming but at spots along the walk you could see where swimmers could climb down to the rocks and use some of the metal steps installed to make getting in and out of the water a little easier. Would love to have a swim but not as nice in the wind. 
 
We pottered around and had a light lunch  on a verandah overlooking the little bay. We watched the little seabird taxis fly into the harbour delivering mostly locals saving them the walk around the coast. They look so cute we decided to catch one back. What a hoot. They fly along, bumping and splashing and providing a great ride back into the main harbour of Hydra.

Flying seabird taxi
 
After more aimless wandering we headed back to our guest house to relax. 
I did some washing and then sat reading under an umbrella on the small stone terrace. Such a lovely spot and so quiet this afternoon in contrast to this morning. 
 
An aperitif was calling so Jill and I left Chris and headed to the Pirate Bar for our cocktail. We followed this with a simple dinner at a local taverna. 
 
And so to bed. 
Oh and I got hot water this afternoon after my COLD shower this morning because the hot water button in my room was turned off!  And the host forgot to turn it on

Rock in’ roll in’ ridin’ to Hydra

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  • Monday 29th – to Hydra
     
    Our last night in our little cave house. I have a double door onto the patio and I can open the top part (like a horse door but smaller) and leave it open all night. So I can listen to the sea, the wind in the wires of the windmill but very little else. It’s truly a magic place to stay. 
    Breakfast on the terrace is lovely especially as the waiter now knows us and brings our coffee in large mugs with extra hot milk on the side. It’s sad to be leaving but Hydra awaits. 
    Hydra is a small car-free island recommended by my Sydney friend Kerrie. She and her husband sail over here and she told me it was a charming little island and isn’t far back to Athens. Everyone we’ve told about going to Hydra has told us it lovely so we can’t wait to get there.
    It was all fine timing to leave Oia, taxi to the airport, and then from Athens on to to Piraeus port. But with the luck of the Irish we did it. Connections! Our taxi driver in Oia recommended his friend in Athens. So remembering my good experience in a similar situation in Sicily serval years ago, trusted we would be looked after and not ripped off. 
    And it was magic. We landed early, and everything went like clockwork so thanks to our taxi driver Archimedes (or something like that) we are sitting on the 2pm fast ferry to Hydra and will be met by a donkey to transport our bags to the hotel we are staying in. Fingers crossed its as good as it sounds. 
     
    15 mins later ………
    Fingers crossed we get there. After stopping at Poros, a really green island, we rather regretted  not getting off – for 5 mins later there were scenes reminiscent of  Titanic without the band. But there is a crazy show on TV where the contestants are dancing in front of a weather map in short swirly dresses. The hydrocat swooping  and rolling and its like being  on a roller coaster (still is! Writing this is taking my mind off the dipping and rolling) a lady opposite me is vomiting into a bag and people are gasping ooh! arrh! at regular intervals. Ride em cowboy! A man who seems to know about the boat said the driver is going too fast for the current between islands. Where are the pirates when you need them! Aaarrrggghh!
     
    At first I was joking about us being able to swim the rest of the way but now it’s looking likely – and I haven’t got my fins on! Makes the plane ride, in the wind, more like a walk in the park. Steve is probably thinking I’m exaggerating but I’m ………….. Well maybe a little. It’s starting to settle and I can’t wait for my fourth form of transport today  – a donkey ride.  

Sunday : a day in Fira

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Sunday

 
Woke to howling winds which they tell us are about a month too soon! Back on with the good old Bonds zip hoodie and off to the bus to Fira, the capital of Santorini. Comfortable bus ride down passing lots of walkers and apartments on the outskirts of Oia and we felt vey SMUG about our superior position. 
 
Arrived in Fira and within a few paces had eyed a massage place for poor Chris who is struggling with back pain, a result of a weeks swimming and a slight tumble down a rogue stair in Oia. We booked him in and went exploring. 

Imagine lots of tourists in a mish-mash of clothes due to the windy, cool weather (the most outrageous was the lady in sea aqua tights, beige linen knee length dress, purple wooly cardigan and a multi coloured scarf. I felt the height of fashion by comparison!) Then there were: snapping cameras, ooh and arrhs at the views, buskers playing very mellow tunes outside the large Greek Orthodox Cathedral, and multiple jewellery stores. 
Inside the Cathedral the little Greek lady who was cleaning was muttering – probably about the disrespectful tourists, sweeping and realigning the candles people had lit and put into the sand tray. 
 
Meandered the streets towards the cable car and decided not to ride it. It looked way too swaying for us. Instead we climbed stairs and visited  the Catholic Cathedral. It was painted yellow in contrast to the white of most of the buildings. 

Ventured into the Red Donkey for lunch and shared a few plates. Chris left us for his massage and Jill and I decided on a wander through the shopping streets. Not too much to attract us but I did buy some Spanish espadrilles! After being in France and not buying them, I then find some I like in Greece!

A few streets later we found a linen shop and after much ducking in and out of dressing rooms, sharing clothes and giving Very Honest opinions of how fetching we looked, Jill bought a blue/white linen top and I bought a very blue asymmetrical top and a burnt orange linen dress! Well done us. 
 
We made our way to the bus station and along with all the badly dressed tourists rushed onto the return bus to Oia. What an experience. Apart from a driver who thought he was in a James Bond speed scene, the real entertainment came with the conductor! What a cranky Greek he was. Smart mouthed, sarcastic, mean spirited and a tourist hater! His comments to various passengers included: “what language do you want to me to say it in” (to a poor Japanese man); “I’m not a bancomat” to the Spaniard who tried to give him a 100 euro note; “if you are getting off here – hurry” as people were trying to push through the crowds. Jill and I had a good seat and had a Greek language lesson from three local siblings who were carrying a huge white box, which we offered to hold on our laps. Our guess proved correct. It was the eldest one’s 14th birthday and they had been to buy a cake. She proudly opened the box to reveal a big white heart shaped cake decorated in gaudy red roses. Not to be too mean, I did think perhaps they had a hearty diet and would enjoy the big cake. They we all three of them rather well covered. The eldest girl had quite good English and then started to teach us a few Greek words. Not sure we were good students. 
 
We all got off at the same spot and as their house was right at the bus stop I thought we might be invited in to meet mum and share the cake. No such luck. So we crossed the road and entered Oia from the start of the village opposite to where we were staying. 
It’s a little more upmarket  – cave house and lots of “beautiful people” were lying on deck chairs around individual plunge pools. We could see them from the top walkway as all the little cave house appear to tumble down the cliff face. It was wonderful to see. 

We enjoyed a wedding  conducted on a little rocky outcrop, saw some local little girls playing with their Barbie dolls, dogs sleeping in door ways, the rich and maybe famous sitting in cafes drinking wine, and others enjoying a Greek style passeggiata. Lovely scene
 
We reach our end of the village and Jill – after a little urging from me, bought the beautiful navy silk top and I stopped in and picked up the pink silk. We are ready for a glamorous night out now. 
 
The crowds were gathering for the sunset and we smugly walked back to our “villa with a view” settled in with snacks and beer! (out of wine!) and snapped another few !!!!  Photos. What a sunset. Bright orangey pink sun, silvery lined clouds, rays plunging into the sea and changing every second. It’s an amazing sight. 
 
We had the loud neighbours (guess where they came from!) move in this afternoon which destroyed our peace but gave us a laugh. 
 
Another lovely dinner at Papagalos with our fun gay waiter and then to bed. 

Saturday: Farewell First Class Steve

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Saturday


Woke later than we planned! Steve didn’t get up and roam the quiet streets but Chris did. Finally hit the streets and visited the bookshop! The rocky outcrop with the spectacular view and of course the patisserie where Steve had spied some delicious pastries. We sat in the terrace sheltering from the dripping rain and enjoyed warm milk pie and apple tart. Yum. 

Before long it was time for Steve to depart. He had on his very sad face. We had heard his Airfrance flight had been changed due to a strike and he was now on Emirates. A text later from him in Athens confirmed he had won the upgrade lottery. He was First Class – all the way to Melbourne. Yay for Steve. Now he’ll find it hard to fly business. 

After Steve left we had our little siesta and then Jill and I had some girl time! We decided to try a little shopping. Well picture us in possibly the nicest boutique in Oia and becoming friends with the lovely girls then spending quite some time trying different outfits on. It’s was great fun. On my own I may not have tried things and I think Jill would have been the same but together! We went into the same dressing room and swapped things around. We have different figure types and some suited one and some suited the other!
Finally I decided on a lovely coral coloured silk top. Jill didn’t find anything so the lovely girl told us to visit their other shop around the corner. It’s called the silk shop and had may different things. Well into the shared dressing room again and more fun. Jill loved a naval silk top with  soft sleeves and a fitted band around the bottom. Lovely. She decided to “think” about it but I’m sure it’s the one for her.
We scurried back to Chris with a bottle of red and nibbles and watched the sunset. Not as good as yesterday so that’ll make Steve feel better. 

Found a lovely restaurant not far from our villa and we settled in and I had my first moussaka. Yum. The waiter was a hoot. Slightly gay – like that guy from the fashion show. Very funny but so attentive and brought us the nicest house wine I had tasted. 
We hid from the table of 4 Aussies next to us. They were loud and we didn’t want to get involved in their singing of Aussie Aussie Aussie! 

But they guessed and spent a few minutes describing all they had “done” in their six weeks holiday. We found out at least 20 things about them but gave away nothing much at all. Very “lock and key” 

Home to mint tea and a good sleep 

Friday – Steve’s last day on holidays

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Friday – Saturday


We all made our way to the port – with a little detour by me to the bakery! It’s two hours to Naxos and we wouldn’t want to starve! the boat trip was different this time as we knew more travellers and had more fun and laughs as we went. Some of the group were dressed in climbing gear – they are the ones who had opted to climb Mt Zeus. It included Sarah Wilson, guides Ricky and Emma, the NZ sporty couple David and Kim and “glass half full girl” Maryanne. Steve and I and the Wilsons had another ferry to catch to Santorini. 

The ferry was a scene from Titanic. People were jostling for seats and pushing up stairs. We found a few seats – a little like a movie theatre all facing forward. Got settled then the German invasion with numbered seats! How did that happen? We obviously had only bought economy seats! They were in Premium and there was even a business class. Oh what an oversight. Anyway Steve and I found two free seats in the Asian section and Jill and Chris were in the cafe area. The trip took about 2-3 hours and then we arrived at another movie scene. Crowds everywhere. Standing in the exit  under the boat ( where the cars usually park) along with hundred of other refugees on holidays all with wheely suitcases , we were jostled and shouldered and felt like movie extras in a re-enactment of the landing at Anzac Cove. Appropriately, the boat backed into the port and it looked like we were going to ram the cliff straight in front of us. 
Fortunately I had emailed ahead to be met so we walked off and found our name among the many Greeks enthusiastically waving signs with names on them. 
We got in a mini bus and away. Went up the winding hill away from the port and enjoyed the view of the distant village of Oia which looked like snow on a mountain top. The villages are all white and scattered along the top of the cliffs overlooking the sea. It’s a gorgeous view and we couldn’t wait to get to Oia.  Felt very smug as we passed through other village feeling we had selected the right village for us. 
We were greeted by Paolus a big strong guy who lifted our suitcases with ease and went up the winding path to reception. Turns out we are on the end of the village in the very best position for viewing the famous sunset of the caldera. Our little villa has a front gate , four chairs and an umbrella on the patio outside the front door. Inside is a lounge room/ kitchen and then two bedrooms and bathrooms. One on the front  and one on the back. It’s perfect. 

 Hurriedly bought Prosecco, beer and ouzo, some snacks and settled ourselves on the patio for the viewing.  We were  as excited as kids. Laughing and sipping and snapping and kissing and hugging. It was also Steve’s last night so we wanted to make it special. Well Jill and I overdosed on bubbles and were wobbling after sunset as we made our way through the village to dinner. The streets are narrow, cobbled, steep in places and crowded with people all along the way who were there for the viewing of sunset. Once again we felt very SMUG to have found the perfect quiet spot for our own private viewing. 
Fantastic 

Dinner was at Scala and involved much more food and drink encouraged by Steve who was trying to cram three days of fun into one! 

It was lovely, lots of photos and laughter and Steve trying to buy me a lovely piece of jewellery from one of the many shops along the way. All the shops are open till 10 pm which seems a little OTT but with all the romantics in the area it must be good for that impulsive buy. 
I managed to restrain Steve from doing it (?) until the morning when I had decided what I really  wanted! 

S o off to bed under the windmill. When you see photos of Santorini and you see the famous windmill at the top of the island – that’s where we stayed. 

Morning in Athens – or Where the Eastern Frieze should be

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Morning in Athens

We decided to make the most of our morning in Athens and help Steve get some sights in.
So up early and breakfast at the hotel and then on foot to the Pantheon Museum and the Acropolis – about 15 minutes away. It was well worth the early breakfast at 7am and being on the street by 7.40. It’s much quieter then and the walk towards the Acropolis was wonderful. Got there as it opened at 8:00 and spent a great hour there. On good advice from some young friends of the Wilsons we headed to the top food at the Museum. It explains clearly the story behind the building of the Acropolis . We spent some time marvelling at the remains being pieced together by the archeologists.

Evzonnes at the Greek National Memorial

Trying to beat the tour groups, our own little group of 5 set off up the hill. It unfolds gently as you walk the slopes. The view across the city unfolds and the whiteness of the building starts to stun. As we rounded the last curve towards the Acropolis we were shocked to see the crowds, in waves, of cruise ship tour groups. DAMN! They must have come sneaking through special tour gates.

The The area around the Acropolis is rocky and rough and feels more original than having set paths and signs. The temple of Athena is also there and has exquisite carvings on the porticos surrounding the temple.

Recreated Eastern Frieze at the Museum

The Acropolis is wonderful, awe inspiring, magnificent – a piece of architecture to rival anything modern. Up close it is amazing, but like a lot of buildings its grandeur becomes obvious from a distant viewing.

We wandered back down the hill through winding streets led by our own little tour guide, Sarah, who with the aid of google earth had us back near the hotel before ur departure time of 11am.

So we had time for a little shoe shopping and a really beautiful coffee.

Back to collect bags and then a suitcase rally to the nearest metro station for a train out to the airport.
All very easy.

Theatre on the Acropolis
Two old ruins amongst the ruins

 

Where the Eastern Frieze should go

 

Just another monument in Athens

Athens…………

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Athens
 
We left La Grande Motte in the dark and got to Marseilles in plenty of time for our Aegean Airline flight. It was crowded but I had an empty seat next to me – lucky me! 
 
The flight was delayed and as it turned out we arrived at the same time as the Wilsons. We met in the baggage area. Shared a taxi to the hotel where we found Sarah waiting for us. A quick change and off we went to the roof top bar! Oh my what a view. Looked straight out toward the Acropolis. Magic! It’s so lovely to meet up with our good friends in such an exotic location. 

The Wilsons had friends (two lovely young sisters from home) meet us and we enjoyed a variety of drinks while catching up and looking at the view. Finally the need for food took over and off we went to find a restaurant commended by their Greek friend Penny. We shared such delicious food – souvlaki (pork and chicken). stuffed tomatoes, salads, tzatziki. Yum. 

 
Then it was off to explore. Great area to explore in the Plaka. Full of life with colour, noise and people all having fun. Lots of rush-covered timber chairs checked tablecloths , vines growing over shaded areas and twinkling lights. Great atmosphere. 
 
Back to the rooftop bar for another view, a few photographs and off to bed with a plan for an early start to head up to the Acropolis before the crowds. Also the new museum. Poor Steve, he won’t be coming back to Athens so wants to do the big “must see” places in the morning. 



And so to bed. Lovely to have the Wilsons – Chris, Jill and Sarah sharing this Greek Adventure with us.