All that Jazz

Here in New Orleans or Nuawlins it’s all about Jazz – when it’s not about food and cocktails!

It really is a place for music lovers, young and old.

There is jazz morning and night. Most good. Some great and last night we had some great jazz.

We started with a lovely French dinner at Lilette a very good restaurant across the road. I really do like this Magazine street vibe.

We started with a cocktail- for STEVE a rather powerful one with Mexcal a rather potent tequila type drink! More later!!!!!

Then a mad Uber dash to Frenchman’s Street. I think I mentioned already that the best jazz is found there. You can visit any bar for free jazz as long as you buy one drink per set. So as you make your from club to club you could do some damage.

I bought tickets to a show where the average age of the musicians was around 70. But boy what experience they had. It was spellbinding.

We went to Snug Harbour in Frenchman’s St and behind the small bar & restaurant there is private intimate room. Seating 35 at small tables downstairs and 20 at balcony seats it was just perfect.

The show opened with sax player Charlie who was so cute but could sure blow that sax.

Then we heard George French on the bass. He was one cool cat.

Here’s a sample of what they played. It was wonderful. The timing, the phrasing the sound. All magic.

Charlie Gabriel sax

I get jealous

George French bass

Black magic.

Germaine Basil. Vocals

Almost like being in love

I thought about you

Exactly liky you

In a groove Mary had a little lamb

First you say you will

Everyday I get the blue

Germaine had to be helped up the stage stairs by the youngest member of the group – the pianist. But once there she came alive and jigged and crooned and held us

The drummer was having fun and it showed.

So if you are coming to NOLA it is worth booking something special. These guys had so much experience and such a love of their craft it was intoxicating. Literally ………..

in Steve’s case, as he had two rum punch drinks and felt like he’d been punched. He was so funny coming home in the Uber. Made no sense – except to himself!

Ramblin’ through Nuawlins

We are recovering from the exciting times in Santa Barbara and got out the door a little earlier this morning.

We strolled along Magazine Street looking for a new coffee experience.

I can recommend this area. When you have 5 nights or more you can move away from the frantic pace of somewhere like the French Quarter and experience something more – in this case a very attractive suburb a short bus ride or Uber away from the mad action.

But before today let me tell you about our night of Jazz!

Last night we made it to Frenchman’s Street which is not as so ‘ in your face’ as Bourbon St. And the Jazz is supposed to be better.

We ate at Marigny (my salad was delicious as was my cucumber Cosmo) with ‘Chelsey’ our waitress, another ‘hello sugar’ type of girl. The band was good – trumpet, trombone (to Stephen’s delight!), guitar, percussion with lots of oomph!

Later we walked along the street, calling in at different bars and catching some jazz, searching the street market and loving the street band which had everyone hopping!

I love s bit of street dancing. It took me back to Valparaiso last year where I hit the streets dancing.

One last bar, one last drink and we went home. We had another day to face!

Today, Following coffee we strolled the garden streets zig zagging our way to the famous LaFayette Cemetery. The homes in this area are so beautiful. I could easily move into one.

The cemetery is not big but dates back to the early 1800’s and ‘houses’ some of the wealthy families of that time. Many of those buried here died of yellow fever in the 1800’s. Many little children.

It’s not particularly well cared for but has a good feel about it. There was a lovely monument to the firemen.

We strolled thru (or is that through?) the gates and along to a beautiful bookshop. There were lots of familiar titles and seemed cheaper than home – mind you by the time you add tax and convert against Aus $ it’s not much cheaper anymore.

The same with the food in restaurants. Seems cheaper but by the time you add tax and then the ‘suggested’ tip of 18% or 20% or 25%, it’s not that cheap.

A ride on a tramcar is another NOLA must. So we took the #13 to ‘ the end of the line’ through the Garden area along St Charles Street – which happens to be the route for the Mardi Gras.

Mardi Gras is big here. We even passed Mardi Gras World on the bus tour a few days ago.

The homes along this route are magnificent including the Loyola University, Tulane University and numerous catholic schools where – unlike the state schools – the children wear a uniform.

Back to have lunch at the famous Commander’s Palace restaurant only to be told they were full! So a light lunch was probably a better idea!

Then it was Museum time. Steve was very keen to visit the WW2 (huge) Museum. He was missing Peter H who was supposed to be here with us and would have enjoyed it with him. I decided I wasn’t wanting to see another war museum and would rather art galleries- – and there are lots to choose from.

So off we went in different directions.

Here’s Steves account of the Museum.

A very handsome and modern museum, very well curated with great use of technology and personal insights. You could tell by the reaction of the (mainly American) visitors that it was opening their eyes. I didn’t have time for part of it (return on Friday?) – to see the Boeing sponsored aircraft hall and the building on technology in the war (I also had trouble locating the building covering 1939 to the end of 1942, if you get my drift).

So Steve’s afternoon went well as did mine.

Tonight dinner at a FRENCH restaurant , Lilette across the road from our air bnb.

Tomorrow a bus out to Plantation Alley to visit a grand house.

New Orleans or NOLA or ne’awrlins

Our trip from SB to LA to NOLA went without a hitch. Do you like all the letters! We pronounce every letter. Here they don’t!

The Delta flight was fine. The good news was we got access into the lounge because we are Virgin VIPs! We ran into Pauline & Brian who are in their way to Boston.

We arrived on time and booked an Uber which was simple and then ……. no, not disaster. It was Dana. Our Uber driver.

An amazing introduction to NOLA. She was a little Hurricane Katrina! Well not so little – but no one here seems to little in size or heart.

She was full of ‘sugar’ ‘you all’ ‘now listen sugar… ‘

We were chatting like best friends within minutes. It was her second day as a driver and she was loving it!

I took a sneaky photo. What a gorgeous gal.

I’d be happy to have her run me all over NOLA. We heard about her broken foot.

” I’m telling you sugar it’s been a pain….” Her husbands cancer her new baby grandchild…… then the best places to eat, listen to jazz. She was a driving tourist guide.

Then just near our air bnb she pulled up to show us her 101 year old grandmother’s house.

Then we arrived at our bnb and she insisted on waiting to make sure we got inside ok. She couldn’t get out of the car to help – Remember the broken foot!

Our air bnb is fabulous and now because our good friends Peter and Carmel Harrison returned home unexpectedly we have it to ourselves. And it’s near perfect.

They have the perfect reason to rush home after the wedding. They heard at the beach fiesta on wedding eve, that their daughter ( who lives in Goondiwindi) but was minding their house went into labour 4 weeks early and baby George arrived. So first grand baby needs its grandparents.

The house is on 2 levels. A good entrance , big kitchen, lounge then a bedroom and bathroom and laundry. Upstairs is a huge bedroom and huge bathroom with the biggest shower ever seen. We could party in there.

We unpacked and quickly took to the streets of The Garden area. We had been told this was a good alternative to living a week in the midst of the FRENCH quarter or Bourbon St with its noise. And so far I’m happy. It’s a great area.

The houses are wooden and just so attractive.

The area is full of restaurants

And colourful businesses.

Even the Police Station is great.

The architecture and sculptures are eye catching. Even a street library.

We found a ‘ local’ for our first drink. So many cocktails! And fried pickles. So many fried foods. Watch out waist line!

We ate at a local seafood place called Basin. Not bad at all. Big big serves. We can’t cope.

So our first day in Nola has been great.

And sleep is needed. There’s always tomorrow and there’s always another cocktail

The Morning After

The day following a wedding is a day of exhaustion and exhilaration in equal measure.

The wedding finished on a high and the young partied on.

Some met new friends in the street and others just collapsed.

It was the most wonderful wedding. The relaxed super friendly atmosphere was reflected in the way people enjoyed everything. The venue was stunning, the drinks plentiful, the food fabulous – family shared plates of fresh local produce, the music fun and had everyone up dancing including 93yr old Uncle Billy from NY.

In the morning we all wandered down at various times to the very communal lobby and found Jordan relaxing with baby Poppy.

Baby Poppy is Jordan’s 3 month old niece. Her brother Joseph and sister in law Tacie’s gorgeous and very good baby. She partied until the end

and expressed exactly how we all felt this morning.

The remainder of the day was spent at lunch with various Australian and US friends and realty. We bid goodbye to some whilst others continued to party.

Especially my niece Clare never tires and I can’t wait for our week in Bali!

We had a low key pizza dinner at a big long table in a family style restaurant which suited our by now fading needs!

Then it was back to pack. The clothes and the memories.

Thank you to everyone who travelled so far. To all my therapy / book club / aqua friends who sent messages.

To my new in laws. We’re related now. Thank goodness. You have been incredible in the your planning and your generosity. Thank you Lisa and John.

It’s been wonderful.

Now onto NOLA or New Orleans.

Santa Barbara : Wedding Central

Our visit to LA was a wonderful prelude to what is to come. Our son’s wedding in Santa Barbara.

We managed to coordinate a pick up with our friends the Nalders from LAX and decided to drive along the coastal road 101 not the busier road 405. It’s more interesting to see the beaches and the wooden houses along the edge of the road. Millions of $$$$ because they perch on the sand. Or hover in the hills.

The drive was good but somehow took longer than we thought it would. I was excited as we haven’t seen Rob & Jordan for a year.

Santa Barbara is a mission style Art Deco City. It’s lovely. Beautiful buildings , lots of trees and a good feel.

The markets were on straight outside our hotel so we took a wander and waited for Jordan and Rob to appear.

The skies were blue and the architecture was interesting.

We visited the church for a rehearsal but with no bridesmaids or groomsmen it was a fairly quick rehearsal. The church Our Lady of Sorrows is important in the Donati family. Ann Donati , Jordan’s grandmother was married there 63 years ago and her great, great, great, great grandmother has a stained glass window above the altar with her Family name on it. Oralia. It’s Spanish.

The Church where the wedding will take place.

Jordan and her father having a little practice.

We followed this with a small family dinner. Jordan, Rob, Lisa, John and Steve and I.

Others arrive tomorrow. Let’s the celebration begin.

Fun night at home

If you have an inventor as a friend you may have experienced a night like ours.

However, it’s unlikely as Dan Garr or Dannnnnn as he known to his swim trek friends is one big, beautiful, infectious creative being. With his beautiful wife Isabelle or Izzy as he calls her they are a great team and make all guests feel welcome. They have a big house and big hearts to go with it.

Last night he cooked on his amazing fondue pot/ bbq and it was so much fun.

This is the ginormous pot he invented and built. Check out the food in little trays around the outside, the little oven pans on the plates. They look like pizza slices. You assemble your meat with a sauce and a few other things and pop it in the oven! Easy. Tasty.

Then there are the prawns lobster and tempura batter to pop into the boiling oil. Delicious.

But that was last night and today was a ‘Day with a Difference ‘

We hovered in bed till the house was quite and Dan & Izzy gone off to work and only Max 16 was at home as school was off for him. They have ‘student free days’ here just like home.

Then we got up and met the Maria the Mexican house keeper. She was lovely and offered to do our laundry.

We had a plan so headed off on highway 405 south to Seal Beach where another swim friend, my ‘wing woman’ Betty was waiting with her husband Craig. We were so excited to see her that we forgot photos!

We sat over a yummy seafood lunch with our super friendly waitress hovering to help. I had a fish taco. Delicious.

After a few hours talking we said our goodbyes until we meet up again with Betty and our other Galapagos swim trek friends for a NY reunion in 3 weeks time.

We decided to drive further south along highway 1 past the beach areas of Long Beach, Newport Beach, Huntington and Laguna Beaches. Miles of coastline. Some pretty places and lots of Spanish sounding place names, being so close to Mexico. And believe it or not the Trump wall isn’t up yet!

We even saw a little red corvette with a blond driver zipping along. I find myself breaking into well known songs about the places and things we see.

We ended up in SAN Clemente another beachside town. Very pretty with the beach on one side of the town and a huge outlet centre on the other side. Natural we stopped in for a look. Steve did a little shopping at Calvin Kevin and I managed to find very comfortable shoes at Cole Haan.

Back onto the 405 north we zipped along the ride share lane going past 3 other lanes choking with cars.

We arrived home to Dan and Izzy’s house around 6.30 …… to find…..

Dan, the chef, in his amazing kitchen cooking crepes for dinner. He loves to cook and has such a great set up. Huge ovens, a grill and hot plate – everything!

The crepes were divine. Both savoury and sweet with fruits. The Napa Valley wine also hit the spot and helped us sit and plan our next swimming adventure together.

Dan was one of the ‘famous five’ swimmers from the Gibraltar Straits and Corsica to Sardinia swims, the Croatia swim and the Hong Kong harbour swim last Oct. So lots of shared memories.

Feeling a little tired we fell into bed dreaming of the wedding adventures to come.

We’re looking forward to seeing Rob & Jordan – but in Sunshine- no snow! It’s been a year since we saw them.

La La in LA

We arrived in LA at 6am and we’re impressed with the speed through immigration and customs. Much better than when I was here about 8 years ago!

We got our VW SVU and headed to a MacDonalds to get free wifi to load a map onto our iPad. It’s a great substitute for expensive hire guidance from Avis. We also didn’t want to arrive st our friends before 7am!

We descended on them at 8am and spent time catching up and having breakfast before heading out to son Luke’s baseball game.

Our friend Dan and Izzy Garr live in Westchester about 10 mins from the airport but not under the flight path!

They have a large comfortable house they share with their two sons Max 16 and Luke 10.

We headed back towards the airport and experienced baseball! It took me back to sitting on the sidelines at cricket.

We rather liked the ‘code of conduct’ for Parents and Volunteers.

The action started and so did the snacking. It’s not baseball without a hot dog! For me it was popcorn.

Here is STEVE enjoying his hotdog with Dan and Issy’s Dad Max.

I liked this sign as well!

Izzy’s parents arrived and after about an hour and a bit her mum Giselle decided she and I were way too hot and we headed off to a large indoor market for a cool drink and lunch.

Outside in the car park this sign caught my eye.

Welcome to California where everything can be delivered to your door!

We’re now resting up before Dan and Izzy’s friends descend for a fondue with a difference.

Dan our friend from several swimming holidays, is a bit of an inventor. He has designed a large rotating fondue / bbq style thing that sits in the middle of a large round table and you ‘do it yourself’. Can’t wait!

An Art Deco Walk

Breakfast was in our lovely apartment opposite the port. No, not the sailing boats and pretty scenes type of port. A working port! The boys are fascinated by the trucks bringing in the logs destined for China?

Then a quick drive up the hill behind us to take in the views. Beautiful. Including the view of the Sky Princess. Yes, a cruise ship is in town.

We booked a 10 am Art Deco Walk. It started with a film about the 1931 earthquake. A real eye opener. Such destruction.

We walked a few blocks of the city in stunning weather. We can’t believe how wonderful the weather is. We were hoping for cooler weather but not so!

The buildings in the Main Street reflect the Art Deco style built after the earthquake. Such lovely pastel colours.

In the following photos see if you can identify the features of Art Deco style.

The sun motive. The fountain. The chevron. The eye brows. The curves. The tall windows. All important features in the styles of Art Deco.

The guide said if we ever get to Santa Barbara we will see similar styles. I could hardly contain myself and NOT tell her my son was getting married there in April!

After the walk we made our way out to Mission Estate Winery. It was built in 1851and is beautifully restored. What a delightful lunch.

Over lunch we planned more adventures with our friends. Is it Oman? Or the Isles of Scilly ? Wherever it is, with these friends it will be fun.

Tomorrow a long drive back to Auckland and the airport. Home tomorrow night.

Vintage Hawkes Bay New Zealand.

The drive from Rotorua to Napier is interrupted by a compulsory stop in Lake Taupo. This huge beautiful lake has a lovely but touristy town centre with lots of chain style restaurants along the waterfront. We didn’t explore much as we wanted to get to Napier early afternoon.

We had a stop at the Huka Falls. Beautiful.

Napier is a mix of wharves and port and industrial and then the most lovely town centre by the sea.

It suffered a terrible earthquake in 1933 which devastated the city. Despite lack of money from insurance companies, the local people with the help and foresight of several business men, rebuilt the whole city – during the depression, and it was done in the most amazing Art Deco style. Power lines were even put underground to allow the street to show off the building design. It’s done in the distinct Art Deco styles. Classical revival, Stripped style, Spanish Mission and Prairie style. It also incorporates Maori Deco style motifs. To read more follow the links. https://www.artdeconapier.com/site/artdeconapier/ARCHITECTURAL%20STYLES.pdf

We arrived in Napier and it was in full flapper swing. The Art Deco long weekend was on. It was the last day and the Great Gatsby picnic had attracted a huge number of people. It was like walking into a movie set. Everyone dressed in the Art Deco , flapper Gatsby style. There were tents all through the park along the foreshore. As we walked along taking photos we passed magnificent cars – Bentley’s, Ford’s “Tin Lizzie”, Rolls, sedans and convertibles. Money on wheels. Some over 100years old. A large number of cars had been brought by their owners from England for the festival. They were in immaculate condition and the owners dressed to the nines.

We walked along the promenade and admired the high teas going on in the tents. We listened to the jazz bands then the navy band, the swing singer and the barber shop quartet. It was so much fun.

By 6 pm we were ready for a small wine and sat at the Art Deco style Masonic Hotel – and wished we were staying there. No wonder it was hard to book accomodation here. We hadn’t realised until recently it was their Art Deco Festival. It’s definitely worth visiting during this time. There are multiple parties, balls and functions to attend, vintage cars rides and everyone – young and old dress up.

The city was alive with colour, action and very friendly people.

And so out to dinner after a long walk along the waterfront. The sunset said it all …………. Magnificent.

Legends of the Lake

New Zealand is full of movie worthy scenery. No wonder so many movies have been filmed here. It’s beautiful and today we saw a few of these scenes.

The Parkers headed off early to get to the Blue Lake in time for warm ups and briefing before David did the 3.5 km Swim.

We went to breakfast at Cafe de Paris and once inside felt we could have been in Paris. Well almost, if it weren’t for the NZ accents everywhere. But the lady running the place, Yvette, hails from Pau in the south where my friend Carmel is spending some of her holidays right now.

The menu had freshly made galettes and I had a bacon and egg one which happily married the French and Aussie tastes together. It was delicious.

We were soon on the streets of Rotorua searching for bananas to eat before the Swim. I’ve learned from Swim trek that a banana before a Swim will keep your energy levels up and the cramping away. Let’s hope it works.

We had time to stop at Whakarewarewa – try saying that out loud. And remember the WH sounds like an F! It is the Maori Living Village. So people live and work in this village which has been set up around the flowing thermal streams and geysers. I last visited here in 1972 with an assortment of relatives and it has changed quite a bit. Straight away I recognised the overpowering smell of sulphur gases. How people live here I don’t know.

Greeting us at the entrance, under the bridge, were three sizeable young boys who were in the creek below calling out ‘throw us some coins Miss, we’ll dive for them!’ Such entertainment. We couldn’t not join in and before long we were tossing them coins and cheering their retrieval.

Walking through the little streets past the homes that still house people, we noticed the burial grounds in and around the houses and the mist of the gases filling the air. The smoke was very thick in some places and you certainly would not want to go into some of the lakes and water holes. It was boiling and bubbling. The smoke was thick and I was getting a free steam facial – something I would regret later!

Back in the car we headed to the Blue Lake driving through a heavily forested area. The Blue Lake is only about 5 km around and because of its make up appears very Blue – yet next to it there is Green Lake. The Blue Lake is is used for waterskiing and there are terraced steps for people to view the action. Very handy for spectators.

The set up for the Swim was great , so professionally run much, better than Steve’s Swim in HK where he went missing and no one seemed to notice!

David came in just after we arrived and he was smiling and feeling fit. He was followed by Nicky, a friend of theirs who had her leg amputated only 4 months ago. What an amazing women. She lost her leg above the knee because of a tumour and she has been back in the water training from about 6 weeks after the amputation.

Finally it was time for me to get into the wet suit. What a struggle. Chris had decided he would do the Swim – the cold was ok and it looked so lovely. So we went for a warm up swim then had the briefing. All was good. I felt great.

A few minutes later and off we went. The adrenaline was kicking in and I got a good start. Chris took off and left me in his wake. After a few minutes I started to feel my breathing struggle. I kept on. I stopped again. I couldn’t breathe properly. I was wheezing and starting to struggle. Two lovely ladies stopped and asked if I was ok and offered to swim with me. But after a while I knew I couldn’t , so I met Billie. He was a lovely young lifesaver on a paddle board. I told him my problem and he offered to paddle me back. I stayed in the water, hung on to the back of his board and and made it back. I was weak and struggling to breathe. A complete mystery.

After some discussion it was suggested that some people have a reaction to sulphur gases. I think I was one of them.

Such disappointment. I felt silly. But I knew I couldn’t complete it.

Fortunately Kim had a puffer and after a few puffs I was relieved a little. Chris Wilson defended his gold medal from last year. He did a very good 18 min for the 1km. Great swimming Chris.

After the celebrations we took off for a drive to the Green Lake and Lake Tarawera.

Back into Rotorua and a walk through the Government parks before dinner at the Garden Kitchen. The gardens have a magnificent set of entrance gates. They look like metal but are actually timber.

What a great place for dinner. The Parkers daughter Alysa and her husband Adam have just moved to Rotorua so they joined us for dinner. Beautiful dinner and great cocktails.

There was a free concert in the park opposite the restaurant. As we left to walk home the fireworks started – then stopped – then started again. Thanks Kim & David for the great fireworks!