Here in New Orleans or Nuawlins it’s all about Jazz – when it’s not about food and cocktails!

It really is a place for music lovers, young and old.

There is jazz morning and night. Most good. Some great and last night we had some great jazz.

We started with a lovely French dinner at Lilette a very good restaurant across the road. I really do like this Magazine street vibe.

We started with a cocktail- for STEVE a rather powerful one with Mexcal a rather potent tequila type drink! More later!!!!!

Then a mad Uber dash to Frenchman’s Street. I think I mentioned already that the best jazz is found there. You can visit any bar for free jazz as long as you buy one drink per set. So as you make your from club to club you could do some damage.

I bought tickets to a show where the average age of the musicians was around 70. But boy what experience they had. It was spellbinding.

We went to Snug Harbour in Frenchman’s St and behind the small bar & restaurant there is private intimate room. Seating 35 at small tables downstairs and 20 at balcony seats it was just perfect.

The show opened with sax player Charlie who was so cute but could sure blow that sax.

Then we heard George French on the bass. He was one cool cat.

Here’s a sample of what they played. It was wonderful. The timing, the phrasing the sound. All magic.

Charlie Gabriel sax

I get jealous

George French bass

Black magic.

Germaine Basil. Vocals

Almost like being in love

I thought about you

Exactly liky you

In a groove Mary had a little lamb

First you say you will

Everyday I get the blue

Germaine had to be helped up the stage stairs by the youngest member of the group – the pianist. But once there she came alive and jigged and crooned and held us

The drummer was having fun and it showed.

So if you are coming to NOLA it is worth booking something special. These guys had so much experience and such a love of their craft it was intoxicating. Literally ………..

in Steve’s case, as he had two rum punch drinks and felt like he’d been punched. He was so funny coming home in the Uber. Made no sense – except to himself!

We are recovering from the exciting times in Santa Barbara and got out the door a little earlier this morning.

We strolled along Magazine Street looking for a new coffee experience.

I can recommend this area. When you have 5 nights or more you can move away from the frantic pace of somewhere like the French Quarter and experience something more – in this case a very attractive suburb a short bus ride or Uber away from the mad action.

But before today let me tell you about our night of Jazz!

Last night we made it to Frenchman’s Street which is not as so ‘ in your face’ as Bourbon St. And the Jazz is supposed to be better.

We ate at Marigny (my salad was delicious as was my cucumber Cosmo) with ‘Chelsey’ our waitress, another ‘hello sugar’ type of girl. The band was good – trumpet, trombone (to Stephen’s delight!), guitar, percussion with lots of oomph!

Later we walked along the street, calling in at different bars and catching some jazz, searching the street market and loving the street band which had everyone hopping!

I love s bit of street dancing. It took me back to Valparaiso last year where I hit the streets dancing.

One last bar, one last drink and we went home. We had another day to face!

Today, Following coffee we strolled the garden streets zig zagging our way to the famous LaFayette Cemetery. The homes in this area are so beautiful. I could easily move into one.

The cemetery is not big but dates back to the early 1800’s and ‘houses’ some of the wealthy families of that time. Many of those buried here died of yellow fever in the 1800’s. Many little children.

It’s not particularly well cared for but has a good feel about it. There was a lovely monument to the firemen.

We strolled thru (or is that through?) the gates and along to a beautiful bookshop. There were lots of familiar titles and seemed cheaper than home – mind you by the time you add tax and convert against Aus $ it’s not much cheaper anymore.

The same with the food in restaurants. Seems cheaper but by the time you add tax and then the ‘suggested’ tip of 18% or 20% or 25%, it’s not that cheap.

A ride on a tramcar is another NOLA must. So we took the #13 to ‘ the end of the line’ through the Garden area along St Charles Street – which happens to be the route for the Mardi Gras.

Mardi Gras is big here. We even passed Mardi Gras World on the bus tour a few days ago.

The homes along this route are magnificent including the Loyola University, Tulane University and numerous catholic schools where – unlike the state schools – the children wear a uniform.

Back to have lunch at the famous Commander’s Palace restaurant only to be told they were full! So a light lunch was probably a better idea!

Then it was Museum time. Steve was very keen to visit the WW2 (huge) Museum. He was missing Peter H who was supposed to be here with us and would have enjoyed it with him. I decided I wasn’t wanting to see another war museum and would rather art galleries- – and there are lots to choose from.

So off we went in different directions.

Here’s Steves account of the Museum.

A very handsome and modern museum, very well curated with great use of technology and personal insights. You could tell by the reaction of the (mainly American) visitors that it was opening their eyes. I didn’t have time for part of it (return on Friday?) – to see the Boeing sponsored aircraft hall and the building on technology in the war (I also had trouble locating the building covering 1939 to the end of 1942, if you get my drift).

So Steve’s afternoon went well as did mine.

Tonight dinner at a FRENCH restaurant , Lilette across the road from our air bnb.

Tomorrow a bus out to Plantation Alley to visit a grand house.

Our trip from SB to LA to NOLA went without a hitch. Do you like all the letters! We pronounce every letter. Here they don’t!

The Delta flight was fine. The good news was we got access into the lounge because we are Virgin VIPs! We ran into Pauline & Brian who are in their way to Boston.

We arrived on time and booked an Uber which was simple and then ……. no, not disaster. It was Dana. Our Uber driver.

An amazing introduction to NOLA. She was a little Hurricane Katrina! Well not so little – but no one here seems to little in size or heart.

She was full of ‘sugar’ ‘you all’ ‘now listen sugar… ‘

We were chatting like best friends within minutes. It was her second day as a driver and she was loving it!

I took a sneaky photo. What a gorgeous gal.

I’d be happy to have her run me all over NOLA. We heard about her broken foot.

” I’m telling you sugar it’s been a pain….” Her husbands cancer her new baby grandchild…… then the best places to eat, listen to jazz. She was a driving tourist guide.

Then just near our air bnb she pulled up to show us her 101 year old grandmother’s house.

Then we arrived at our bnb and she insisted on waiting to make sure we got inside ok. She couldn’t get out of the car to help – Remember the broken foot!

Our air bnb is fabulous and now because our good friends Peter and Carmel Harrison returned home unexpectedly we have it to ourselves. And it’s near perfect.

They have the perfect reason to rush home after the wedding. They heard at the beach fiesta on wedding eve, that their daughter ( who lives in Goondiwindi) but was minding their house went into labour 4 weeks early and baby George arrived. So first grand baby needs its grandparents.

The house is on 2 levels. A good entrance , big kitchen, lounge then a bedroom and bathroom and laundry. Upstairs is a huge bedroom and huge bathroom with the biggest shower ever seen. We could party in there.

We unpacked and quickly took to the streets of The Garden area. We had been told this was a good alternative to living a week in the midst of the FRENCH quarter or Bourbon St with its noise. And so far I’m happy. It’s a great area.

The houses are wooden and just so attractive.

The area is full of restaurants

And colourful businesses.

Even the Police Station is great.

The architecture and sculptures are eye catching. Even a street library.

We found a ‘ local’ for our first drink. So many cocktails! And fried pickles. So many fried foods. Watch out waist line!

We ate at a local seafood place called Basin. Not bad at all. Big big serves. We can’t cope.

So our first day in Nola has been great.

And sleep is needed. There’s always tomorrow and there’s always another cocktail

The day following a wedding is a day of exhaustion and exhilaration in equal measure.

The wedding finished on a high and the young partied on.

Some met new friends in the street and others just collapsed.

It was the most wonderful wedding. The relaxed super friendly atmosphere was reflected in the way people enjoyed everything. The venue was stunning, the drinks plentiful, the food fabulous – family shared plates of fresh local produce, the music fun and had everyone up dancing including 93yr old Uncle Billy from NY.

In the morning we all wandered down at various times to the very communal lobby and found Jordan relaxing with baby Poppy.

Baby Poppy is Jordan’s 3 month old niece. Her brother Joseph and sister in law Tacie’s gorgeous and very good baby. She partied until the end

and expressed exactly how we all felt this morning.

The remainder of the day was spent at lunch with various Australian and US friends and realty. We bid goodbye to some whilst others continued to party.

Especially my niece Clare never tires and I can’t wait for our week in Bali!

We had a low key pizza dinner at a big long table in a family style restaurant which suited our by now fading needs!

Then it was back to pack. The clothes and the memories.

Thank you to everyone who travelled so far. To all my therapy / book club / aqua friends who sent messages.

To my new in laws. We’re related now. Thank goodness. You have been incredible in the your planning and your generosity. Thank you Lisa and John.

It’s been wonderful.

Now onto NOLA or New Orleans.

Our visit to LA was a wonderful prelude to what is to come. Our son’s wedding in Santa Barbara.

We managed to coordinate a pick up with our friends the Nalders from LAX and decided to drive along the coastal road 101 not the busier road 405. It’s more interesting to see the beaches and the wooden houses along the edge of the road. Millions of $$$$ because they perch on the sand. Or hover in the hills.

The drive was good but somehow took longer than we thought it would. I was excited as we haven’t seen Rob & Jordan for a year.

Santa Barbara is a mission style Art Deco City. It’s lovely. Beautiful buildings , lots of trees and a good feel.

The markets were on straight outside our hotel so we took a wander and waited for Jordan and Rob to appear.

The skies were blue and the architecture was interesting.

We visited the church for a rehearsal but with no bridesmaids or groomsmen it was a fairly quick rehearsal. The church Our Lady of Sorrows is important in the Donati family. Ann Donati , Jordan’s grandmother was married there 63 years ago and her great, great, great, great grandmother has a stained glass window above the altar with her Family name on it. Oralia. It’s Spanish.

The Church where the wedding will take place.

Jordan and her father having a little practice.

We followed this with a small family dinner. Jordan, Rob, Lisa, John and Steve and I.

Others arrive tomorrow. Let’s the celebration begin.