Sleepy little Port? I think not!

We had our siesta – which included the last hour of today’s Tour de France.

Then the streets of Trani. What is it about this place that makes it special?

We had to re-park the car. Fredrica told us we had to ‘be gone’ by 7pm when the area in front of the port becames ‘for the people.’ I love this. It’s all about people enjoying themselves. But what people?  It’s seems no one is here. It’s so quiet.

So we drove through the the quiet streets just before 5.  The unofficial end of siesta. We found a carpark. We hope we don’t get towed.

Then it was our own form of passeggiata. Through the local gardens. Oh what a feeling. I love gardens in any place and these are so special by the sea. I’m really a sea person I’ve decided.


We walked, we talked. The afternoon light was romantic.

We walked through the quiet streets as they woke up. People on bikes, people talking and gesticulating as Italians do with their hands

Eventually we reached the Cathedral. The dramatic seafront cathedral is dedicated to St Nicholas the Pilgrim, famous for being foolish. The Greek Christian wandered through Puglia, crying ‘Kyrie eleison’ (Greek for ‘Lord, have mercy’). They thought he was a simpleton, but eventually he was revered after his death (aged 19) after several miracles attributed to him occurred.

Well poor Nicholas chose a fine place. It’s simple, it’s moving, it was startling in the afternoon sun. I had to sit inside to  recover.


The streets back to the port were quiet with just a few children out kicking soccer balls.

Then we hit the fish markets along the front of the port. Chaos! Cat calling. Every few metres there was a table with plastic bins filled with little fish. Fishermen trying to sell their fish.  Not big ones. Are the waters overfished?

The men and boys were calling out their catches. Others were repairing nets. It reminds me that this is still a fishing port.



Feeling just a little tired we stopped at one of the many bars along the port front. Naturally,  an Aperol Spritz for me and a large beer for Steve. We relaxed and watched. Probably my favourite activity.

Then the Opera started.

A large group arrived at the bar next door. A group of happy,  though sadly, disabled adults and their carers. They settled into the cafe and gelato started to appear. They were singing and clapping and showing us all how to be delighted  by the simple act of sharing a gelato.

Then one of the fish mongers came along pulling his cart. You could tell he was keen to get home. As he turned into the little street next to our bar he came upon a motorbike, parked so he couldn’t move forward. He called to us? Vostra ? No. Not ours. He called loudly. His friend arrived. They both called loudly to the people around.

I knew who had been so inconsiderate. I’d seen him park. I searched for him in the crowd. Mr white linen shirt!

Finally,  they I found him. Instead of telling him off or rudely swearing. They thanked him. Drama over.

I love these Italians. All drama. Then it’s over.

I saw a man earlier today, wearing a t shirt I loved and I just had to ask permission to take his photo. This to me says it all.


Our afternoon became evening and we went to a restaurant recommended by Fredrica. Naturally it served fish! So we chatted to the waiter. No English from him,  so I was tested! But we managed to order whole fish, grilled for me and Pugliese style for Steve. And a lovely local white.

Our waiter taught me a new word. Instead of ‘Lei’  when referring to a woman  – in this area they are called Etta! (that’s the name of the wine he suggested we try.)  I hope that’s right! I believed him.

Hope I didn’t learn a new swear word.

Now I’m sitting on our little balcony overlooking the not so quiet street below. It’s 12.34 am! And the action is still happening! Hope this little video works. Look for the Cathedral at the end.


Good night from Trani.

Terrific Trani a friendly Port 

Slept so well last night after a wonderful dinner on the terrace at the Borgo San Marco.



Today – Wednesday and we set out for a fairly shortish drive up the coast to Trani. We stopped at a few little beach side places along the way including Monopoli a larger port. It was just lovely. Not touristy , certainly no Australians!

It has a wonderful Cathedral dating from the 12th Century  it’s in  great condition and is having even more work being done outside. We saw a priest talking to someone who looked like a architect/ builder and I’m sure he was asking for further discounts on the work.

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I’m sure if I had this as my local church I would go every day. It was full of light and the paint work was stunning.

We moved on to Molfetta another port and found a lovely little restaurant, quite modern, right on the rocks near the port. Steve a had a burger with a twist. It had a curry flavoured crispy bun! I had ….. Salmon and veg! We’re certainly not missing out on any good food. But we are very good. No eating between meals!

 

view from our little table built into the stone fence.

Continued up the coast to Trani as we wanted to arrive in time to enjoy the apartment and the views. Also it’s best to arrive during siesta as the streets are quiet and it’s easy to park. Lovely Fredrica met us and the apartment is right on the front facing the port and will be wonderful for two nights. I could stay here two weeks! Check out the views in the next photos.



Naturally Steve is relaxing watching the last 20 km of the Tour de France before we explore the town.

Out the door is the wonderful view of the Port.

After siesta we intend to explore the narrow streets surrounding the port. The Cathedral is supposed to be spectacular as it is one of the few in Italy right by the water. Fredrica told us this isn’t a very touristy place. It’s mostly used by local Italians for a getaway. What a place. Our friends from Sydney – the Roberts told us about this little port – and now I’m telling you ……

More exploring tonight and tomorrow ……

Have you got any little secret locations you would like to share? Please put into the Comments Box.